1952—How to Make Hats
by Ruby Carnahan
Covering a Breton Sailor
DESCRIPTION
A Breton Sailor has a rolled brim, requiring an exact paper pattern to be made of the brim. The pattern is used to cut covering for frame. Material is then pinned to curved side on brim edge and smoothed over curved side of frame that has been smeared with Milliners Glue. Be sure that material has adhered to curved side of frame and is thoroughly dry before putting on the facing material.
For pattern cutting instructions refer to page 31 For gluing instructions refer to page 24.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
- 1/2 yard of material for covering frame
- Breton frame
- 3/4 yard of grosgrain headband ribbon
- One hat lining
COVERING A ROUND CROWN
(Illus. 1) Cut a square of material large enough to cover crown and pin to
head block back, front and sides. Hold block over steam and pull down points
of material back, front and sides until all wrinkles are worked out of material.
Pin material around bottom of block.
(Illus. 2) When material is dry, lift off block and slip onto frame crown.
(Illus. 3) Sew around bottom of crown and cut off excess material. Mark back
and front of crown.
CUTTING MATERIAL FOR BRIM
(Illus. 4) Place pattern on material and mark around pattern, allow 1/2" and
cut out two brim pieces, one for top of brim and one for facing of brim. Join
brim pieces together in back, stitch and steam press seam open.
PINNING AND GLUING MATERIAL TO FRAME
(Illus. 5) Smear framewith Milliners Glue.
(Illus. 6) Pin material on top of frame, seam in back, and follow gluing instructions.
Turn material over brim edge 1/4" and sew.
Pin facing material,seam in back,to frame, allowing 1/2" of material to extend around edge of brim.
(Illus. 7) Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner.
Turn edge of facing material over wire, and pin around edge of brim.
(Illus. 8) Sew facing to brim under wire using a back stitch. Finish headsize
with a lining and a swirled headband ribbon.
Instructions for linings and headband ribbons page 45.
