1952—How to Make Hats
by Ruby Carnahan

Bias Covered Basic Sailor

Make a basic sailor frame (page 27) or use a ready made sailor frame. A bias covered basic sailor requires half to three quarters of a yard of material for covering frame, depending on size of frame. Cover crown and brim separately, then sew crown to brim.

TOP OF CROWN

Cut a 10" square of material to fit top crown, having one point of material in front and pin front back and sides to top of crown, stretching material as you pin. Turn material over edge of crown 1/2" and sew to side crown. Cut off excess material around crown under stitching.

SIDE CROWN

Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider than frame side crown measures. Pin one edge of bias piece around top of crown stretching bias as you pin. Pin ends together on the bias, remove from crown, stitch and press seam open. Return bias piece to side crown with seam in back. Turn material under 1" around top of crown, balance of material turn over bottom edge of crown and sew to inside of crown. Mark back and front of crown.

BIAS BRIM

Measure a bias piece to fit around brim, fold in half lengthwise and turn over brim. Stretch and pin to fit brim. Pin bias ends together, remove from brim, stitch and press seam open. Fold bias lengthwise and return to brim (be sure brim edge is in center of fold). Pin around brim edge (Illus. 1). Pull top of material into headsize and sew (Illus. 2), then remove pins on brim edge and pull material on facing into headsize and sew. Mark back and front of brim.

SEWING CROWN TO BRIM

Match marking on crown and brim, pin and sew crown to brim (Illus. 3).

LINING SAILOR

Requires a lining and headband.

Instructions page 45.