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Early 1940's—Ladies' Garment Cutting and Making
by
F. R. Morris
Table of Contents—Long
Preface to the Third Edition
Preface to the Second Edition
Foreword
Chapter I—Basis of the System for Coat Construction
Chapter II—The Art of Measuring and Scales of Proportionate Measurements
Chapter III—Construction of Patterns for Short Coats
Chapter IV—The Principles of Waist Suppression
Chapter V—Sleeve Cutting
Chapter VI—The Construction of Patterns for "Classical" Short Jackets
Chapter VII—The Construction of Patterns for Long Coats
Chapter VIII—The Construction of Patterns for Raglans
Chapter IX—Skirt Cutting
Chapter X—Dress Cutting
Chapter XI—Sleeves for Dresses
Chapter XII—Evening Gowns
Chapter XIII—Collar Construction for All Coats
Chapter XIV—Blouses, Waistcoats, Magyars and Capes
Chapter XV—Trousers, Shorts, Plus-Fours, Ski-ing Trousers, and Riding Breeches
Chapter XVI—Dressing-Gowns and Lingerie—Bias Cutting
Chapter XVII—Pattern Grading and Designing by Block Patterns
Chapter XVIII—Inlay Provision—Economical Layouts and Cutting from the Material
Chapter XIX—Practical Tailoring
Chapter XX—The Making of Skirts, Trousers, Breeches, and Shorts
Chapter XXI—Various Stitches in Tailoring and Dressmaking
Chapter XXII—The Art of Modelling
Chapter XXIII—Bias-Cutting for Dressmakers and Model Cutters
Chapter XXIV—Pattern Construction for the Wholesale Trade
Appendix
Illustrations
- A Figure Measured, on the Basis of the Eight-heads Theory
- Depth and Width Factors Applied to a Draft Basis
- Problems of Back Neck Width
- Location of the Front Neck Point and Front of Scye
- Taking the Measurements
- Taking Direct Measurements
- The Basic Draft
- Panelled Coat Basis Draft
- Sidebody Coat Basis Draft
- Single-seam Basis Draft
- Variation from the Normal for Erect and Stooping Figures
- Basic Draft for Provision for Full Development of Bust
- (a). Location of the Hip Size and Waist Increment
(b). Location of the Hip Size and Waist Increment - The Shoulder Dart and Bust Contour Provision
- The Underarm Dart
- (a). Basis for Lounge Coat
(b). Basis for Lounge Coat - Sectional Views of the Figure Illustrating Waist Suppression
- Draft Illustrating Incorrect Waist Suppression
- The Effect of Extreme Waist Suppression
- Further Illustration of Incorrect Waist Suppression
- Fitting the Figure Contours
- The Effect at the Sideseam
- Remodelling the Back Pattern
- Reconstruction of the Pattern
- Analysis of Waist Suppression Principles
- Basic System for Two-piece Sleeve Cutting
- Two-piece Sleeve Basis Drafted Away from the Scye
- Basic Draft for One-piece Sleeves
- Outline of the One-piece Sleeve
- One-piece Sleeve without Wrist Dart
- Manipulation to Produce a Wider Sleeve at the Elbow
- Seam Displacement in a Two-piece Sleeve
- Single-breasted Link-fronted Jacket
- Single-breasted Cut-away Jacket
- Single-breasted Sidebody Jacket
- Single-breasted Link-button Jacket
- Double-breasted Panel Jacket
- Single-breasted Panel Jacket
- Sports Jacket
- Another Link-fronted Jacket
- Single-Breasted Jacket with Hip Basque
- Manipulation of the Basque for Increased Skirt Width
- Draft for Riding Jacket
- Panelled Riding Jacket
- Double-breasted Panel Long Coat
- Double-Breasted Wrap Coat with Sidebody
- Double-Breasted Chesterfield
- Single-Breasted Panel Coat
- Lancer-front Coat
- Double-Breasted Travelling Coat
- Collarless Coat
- Manipulation for Waist Suppression
- Double-Breasted Travelling Coat with Pleated Back
- Raglan Construction Basis Draft
- The Raglan Seam Positions
- The Shoulder Sections
- (a). Preliminary Sleeve Construction
(b). Raglan Sleeve Standard Basis - Single Breasted Raglan Draft
- Provision for Increase of Width in the Skirt
- Raglan Sleeve Draft with Dart Shoulder
- Double-Breasted Ulster Coat Draft
- Two-piece Sleeve Basis Draft
- One-piece Sleeve Basis Draft
- Close-fitting Raglan Coat
- Alteration of the Scye for Deep-scye Raglans
- Two-piece Raglan Sleeve Basis Draft
- A Comparison of Sleeve Depths in Relation to the Scye
- Single-Breasted Deep-scye Raglan Draft
- Deep-scye Raglan One-piece Sleeve Draft
- Loose-fitting Raglan with a Yoke Shoulder
- Sleeve Draft for Fig. 70
- Raglan Sleeve without Shoulder Dart
- Elimination of the Shoulder Dart, Second Stage
- Elimination of the Shoulder Dart, Third Stage
- Two-piece Sleeve without Shoulder Dart
- One-piece Sleeve without Shoulder Dart
- Double-Breasted Split-sleeve Chesterfield
- Split-sleeve Basis Draft
- Loose-fitting Coat Draft showing Normal and Deep-scye Effects
- (a). Two-piece Sleeve Draft for a Normal Scye
(b). Sleeve Drafted in Conjunction with the Deepening of the Scye - Loose-fitting Coat with Drop-shoulder Line
- Varying the Shoulder Line
- Addition of Seams to the Shoulders and Sleeves
- Supplementary Examples of the Drop-shoulder Line
- Adapting the Shoulder Sections to the Sleeve
- Adapting the Shoulder Sections to the Sleeve
- Preliminary to the Basic Principles of Skirt Construction
- Curvature of the Balance Lines
- The Skirt System Basis
- The Skirt System in Practice
- Narrow-width Skirt
- Standard-width Skirt
- Panel Skirt Draft
- Six-gored Skirt
- Wrap Skirt
- Corslet Skirt
- Skirt and Hip Yoke
- Second Example of Hip-yoke Construction
- Trouser-skirt Draft
- Adding Pleats to the Trouser-skirt
- Panel Skirt with Inverted Pleats
- Cutting Pleats from the Material
- Shorts-skirt Draft
- Adding Pleats to the Shorts-skirt
- Basic Construction of the Dress System
- Continuation of the Dress Basis System
- Waist Suppression Manipulation
- Basic Draft of Two-piece Dress System
- Reducing the Waist to Measure
- Two-piece Skirt Basis
- Flared Skirt
- Second Example of Flare Cutting
- A Simple Dress Draft
- Application of the Waist Suppression
- Dress without a Sideseam from Hip Level to Hem Line
- Reconstruction of the Outline Pattern
- A Panelled Dress Design
- Dress with Draped Bodice and Skirt
- Manipulation of the Pattern
- Low Cowl Neck Line
- High Cowl Neck Line
- Inset Cowl Neck Line
- Dress with a Cowl Neck Line
- Reconstruction of the Pattern
- (a). Basic Sleeve Draft
(b). One-piece Sleeve Basis Draft - Sleeve Drafts
- Raglan Basis Sleeve Draft
- Raglan Sleeve Draft
- Drop-shoulder Line
- Drop-shoulder Line Sleeve Construction
- Raglan Sleeve Dress Draft
- Raglan Sleeve Draft
- Sleeve Manipulation
- Manipulation of the Bodice for Fullness
- Dress with Darted Shoulder Line
- Sleeve Draft
- Sleeve Manipulation
- Manipulation of the Bodice Pattern
- Dress with a Drop-shoulder Line and Puff Sleeves
- The Sleeve Draft
- Dress with a Sloping Shoulder Line
- The Sleeve
- Manipulation of the Front and Back Bodice Patterns
- Reconstruction of the Sleeve for the Drop Shoulder
- Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve
- Pouched-hindarm Sleeve
- Sleeve with Vertical Fullness
- Double Pouched Sleeve
- The "Cowl" or Draped Sleeve
- Elimination of the Shoulder Dart
- Reconstruction Draft of the Shoulder
- Standard Basis for Evening Dress
- A Dinner Dress Design
- Manipulation of the Back and Bodice
- Evening Dress with Flared Shoulder Flounces
- The Shoulder Flounce
- Evening Dress with a "Cowl" Neck Line
- Manipulation of the Skirt Section
- Evening Dress with Sleeves
- The Sleeve Draft
- Treatment of Uneven Skirt Design
- Manipulation of the Skirt Pattern
- Bodice Manipulation and the Shoulder Capelet
- Step-collar Construction
- Double-Breasted Collar Construction
- Double-Breasted Ulster or Storm Collar Construction
- Double-Breasted Ulster or Storm Collar Construction
- Roll or Shawl Collar Construction
- Ulster Stand Collar
- Circular Collar Construction
- Circular Stand Collar Construction
- (a). Plain Stand Collar
Construction
(b). Straight Stand Collar Construction
(c). Prussian Collar Construction - Ruck Collar Shape
- Roll Collar Shape
- Bolster Collar Shape
- Fancy Roll Collar
- Large Boat Collar
- Stand Fur Collar
- Basic Draft for Loose-fitting Blouses
- Basic Draft for Close-fitting Blouses
- Blouse with a Yoke Front and Back
- Blouse with Raised Shoulder Seams
- Double-Breasted Blouse Waistcoat
- Single-Breasted Waistcoat Draft
- Bolero Coatee Draft
- Magyar Basis Draft
- Continuation of the Magyar Basis Draft
- Magyar Draft in One-piece Form
- Magyar Blouse Basis Draft with Shoulder Seam
- Magyar Dress with Inset Sleeves
- The Sleeve Manipulation
- Magyar Dress with Sleeves and Bodice Cut Whole
- Manipulation of the Sleeve and Waist Suppression
- Magyar Coat Design
- A Short-sleeve Magyar Dress
- Half-circular Cape
- Cape Set in Panel Seams
- Basis of the Trousers System
- Trousers Cutting Preliminary System
- The Undersides
- Pleated Trousers
- Basic System for Shorts
- Shorts with Pleats at Back and Front
- Pleat Allowances
- Pleat Allowances on the Undersides
- One-piece Shorts Dress
- Pleat Allowances at Back and Front
- Plus-fours
- Ski-ing Trousers
- Riding Breeches
- Explanation of the Gore Overlap
- Jodhpur Riding Breeches
- Analysis of the Gore and Variation of the Sideseam Overlap
- Split-fall Fittings
- Dressing-gown Draft
- Underslip Draft
- Panelled Underslip
- Draft of Cami-knickers
- Draft of Cami-knickers with a Brassiere Top
- Knickers Draft
- Pyjamas Drafts
- Bias-cut Cami-knickers
- Bias Cutting
- Foundation for a Nightgown or an Underslip
- Another Example of Cutting on the Bias
- The Back Grade
- Forepart Grade
- Sidebody Jacket Grade
- Panel Jacket Grade, the Back and Side Panels
- The Front Grade of the Panelled Coat
- Two-piece Sleeve Grade
- One-piece Sleeve Grade
- A Travel Coat
- An Ulster Travel Coat
- A Long Coat with a Pleated Back and a Panel Front
- A Coat Designed on "Sporty" Lines with a Plain Back and Forepart
- A Sports Jacket
- Inlays for a Lounge Jacket
- Sleeve Inlays
- Sidebody Jacket Inlays
- Panel Jacket Inlays
- Skirt Inlays
- Gored Skirt Inlays
- Inlay Allowances for Raglans
- Three-piece and One-piece Sleeve Inlay Allowances
- Inlay Provision for Trousers
- Inlay Provision for Shorts
- Inlays for Plus-fours and Ski-ing Trousers
- Inlays for Breeches and Jodhpurs
- Plain Double-Breasted Costume Layout
- Layout of a Double-Breasted Costume with a Knife-pleated Skirt
- Layout of a Double-Breasted Costume with an Inverted Pleat Panel Skirt
- Layout for a Sidebody Costume with a Plain Skirt
- Layout for a Sidebody Costume with an Inverted Pleat Back and Front
- Layout for a Sidebody Jacket with a Panel Knife-pleated Skirt
- Layout for a Panelled Costume with a Plain or Panelled Skirt
- Layout for a Double-Breasted Costume with a Six-gored Skirt
- Double-Breasted Panelled Jacket and Skirt Layout
- Double-Breasted Long Coat Layout
- Double-Breasted Sidebody Long Coat Layout
- Double-Breasted Panelled Long Coat Layout
- Three-piece Sleeve Raglan Layout
- Two-piece Sleeve Raglan Layout
- Two-piece Sleeve Deep-scye Raglan Layout
- One-piece Sleeve Raglan Layout
- Trousers Layout
- Plus-fours Layout
- Riding Breeches Layout
- Jodhpurs Layout
- Shorts Layout
- Plain Skirt Layout
- Panelled Skirt Layout
- Layout for a Panel Skirt without a Sideseam
- Knife-pleated Skirt Layout
- Knife-pleated Panelled Skirt Layout
- Layout for a Panel Skirt without a Sideseam
- Layout for a Panel Skirt with Inverted Pleats
- Layout for a Panel-fronted Skirt with Inverted Pleats
- Gored Skirt Layout
- Cutting the Linings
- Cutting the Forepart Lining and the Facing
- Marking Up the Inlays
- Cutting the Canvases
- Pocket Facings and Pockets
- Inserting the Pockets
- Inserting the Pockets
- Basting the Canvas to the Fronts
- The Pocket Completed
- Welt Pocket Making
- Welt Pocket Making
- Welt Pocket Making
- Welt Pocket Making
- Welt Pocket Making
- Making the Back and Sewing the Panel Seams
- Making the Linings
- Back and Foreparts Ready for Joining
- Pad-stitching the Lapels
- Basting the Facing to the Fronts
- Turning Out the Foreparts
- Inside Basting of the Foreparts
- Back-part Linings Basted in Position
- Collar Cutting and Making
- Sleeve Making
- Inserting the Sleeve into the Scye
- The Cut-out Garment for Machine Making
- Cutting Out the Linings
- Cutting the Top and Under-collars
- Making the Pockets and Foreparts
- Lining the Coat
- Sleeve Making
- Sleeve Making
- Double-Breasted Collar Making
- Pleat Making in Skirts
- Making an Inverted-pleat Skirt
- Basting Down the Pleats
- Making the Plaquet
- Sewing the Petersham to the Waist
- The Hem Finish
- Trousers Making
- Joining the Waistband to the Tops
- Joining the Back Waistband
- Sewing the Sideseams
- The Bottom Finish for Trousers
- Breeches Making
- Making the Jeatted Pockets
- Completing the Pocket Making and Adding the Waistband
- Making the Back Waistband and Facing Back the Knee Opening
- Sewing the Sideseams Together
- Completion of the Breeches
- Making Pleats in Shorts
- Sprat's Head Stitch
- Crow's Foot Tacking Stitch
- Bar-tack
- Cross-stitching Hem Lines
- Pad-stitching Lapels
- Making French Seams
- Making the Lapped Seam
- Making a Bound Button-hole
- Bias Bindings
- The Button-hole Stitch
- Waist Suppression from Modelling
- Reconstructed Pattern from Modelling
- Modelled "Lounge" Outline
- Modelled Sidebody Jacket Outline
- Bias-cutting Draft
- Constructional Points for Jacket Patterns
- Sidebody Jacket Draft
- Block Front Jacket Style
- Sports Jacket Draft
- Forepart Pattern Manipulation
- Canvas Pattern Construction
- The Sleeve System
- Sleeve Cuff Finishes
- Block Patterns
- Skirt Basis Draft
- Manipulation of Skirt Block Pattern
- All-round Knife-pleated Skirt
- Grade of Jacket Back
- Grade of Forepart
- Sleeve Grade
- Child's Coat
- Basic Draft for Short Jacket
- Full Drape Jacket
- Draft based upon Chest Measurement
