1936—Home Sewing Course
by Helen Hall

Series 8—Eighty Fitting Problems

You may select a topic from this lesson Back of the Waist Front of the Waist Sleeves Skirt

Back of the Waist—21

1. Pouch across the back at the armholes.
2. Pouch in the back at the waist line.
3. Pouch at the underarm seam through the back.
4. Fullness at the armhole in the back.
5. Armhole too low.
6. Garment too wide through the shoulders in the back.
7. Dress too narrow through the shoulders.
8. Crosswise threads of material running up in the back.
9. Vertical fold in the back of the dress near the arm.
10. Neck and shoulders sliding back.
11. Diagonal wrinkles from the shoulder-blades to waist.
12. Diagonal wrinkles from shoulder-blades to underarm seam.
13. Diagonal wrinkles from neck to underarm seam.
14. Drawing through the armpits across the back.
15. Horizontal wrinkles at the base of the neck.
16. Garment standing away from neck.
17. Garment too tight through the back.
18. Drawing through back when arms are brought forward.
19. Drawing at elbows when arms are flexed.
20. Back too short in underarm seam.
21. Back too long at underarm seam

Front of the Waist—18

1. Drawing from the neck to the arm-curve in front.
2. Dress pouching at the front of the dress at the neck.
3. Pouch across the chest from side to side.
4. Front too long from waist to neck.
5. Waist too long at underarm seam.
6. Drawing across the chest from side to side.
7. Vertical fold on the dress in front of the armhole.
8. Shoulders too wide, dropping over the arm.
9. Shoulders too narrow, drawing through sleeves and back.
10. Waist too short in front.
11. Diagonal drawing from bust to underarm seam at waist.
12. Pouch at the armhole in front.
13. Dress hiking up in front.
14. Shoulder seam "sticking up" at the neck.
15. Armhole too tight.
16. Armhole too large.
17. Armhole too high or too low.
18. Small waist and large bust.

Sleeves—20

1. Drawing across top of sleeve at armpit.
2. Sleeve drawing across the sleeve cap on fleshy arm.
3. Diagonal wrinkles across front of sleeve.
4. Wrinkles running from the armpit to the top of sleeve cap.
5. Drawing across the top of arm.
6. Wrinkles across sleeves below the armhole.
7. Vertical fold in front and back of sleeve.
8. Large arm with small armhole.
9. Sleeve pull toward the back.
10. Sleeve short in back and long in front.
11. Sleeve twisting.
12. Too much fullness in top of sleeve.
13. Sleeve too small.
14. Sleeve too large.
15. Sleeve too small for the armhole.
16. Sleeve too tight below the elbow.
17. Sleeve too tight above the elbow.
18. Sleeve too long.
19. Sleeve too short.
20. Sleeve too large at the wrist

Skirt—21

1. Skirt short in center front.
2. Skirt stands out in front.
3. Skirt sags at the sides.
4. Skirt "cups in" in the front.
5. Side seams drawing toward the front.
6. Side seams drawing toward the back.
7. Deep in-curve in back of skirt at the waist.
8. Prominence of the abdomen diminished.
9. Hips too tight.
10. Thighs too tight.
11. Hips too loose.
12. Seams bursting at the side.
13. Pleats drawing when stitched.
14. Pleats standing open.
15. Pleats sagging.
16. Skirt "cupping under seat."
17. Changing location of fullness in circular skirt.
18. Skirt sagging.
19. Skirt too long.
20. Skirt too short.
21. Shortening the pattern of flared skirts.

The Back

Back of waist

Fitting the dress in the back above the armpits is the most important part of fitting and is usually completely ignored. The comfort of the dress depends upon the perfect fitting of this section, as the depths and widths vary greatly for each individual figure and if not fitted correctly will affect the fitting of the front, sleeves and even the hanging of the skirt. Therefore, carefully study the problems of the back for it may be that therein lies the trouble.

1. Pouch across the upper back

Cause: This pouch often occurs in a dress with a fitted sleeve when the figure is short from the armpit to the shoulders and neck. Over-erect figures and those with square shoulders have this difficulty.

Correction: If the dress has been sewed together, rip out the top of the sleeve and the shoulder seam and raise the back section of the dress until the back rests well up to the pit of the arm. Pin the shoulder seam at the altered line. (See "sleeve alteration.")

2. Pouch in the back at the waist line

Cause: This fullness appears on "sway back" figures and is caused by there being too much material in length of the waist at the center back.

Correction: If the waist is cut in one piece with the back of the waist, a crosswise dart can be taken at the waist line sufficiently deep in the center back to eliminate the fullness, diminishing to nothing at the side seams.

If the dress has a seam at the waist, the skirt can be lifted at the center back.

If the waist line is not desired, vertical tucks can be made on each side equidistant from the center back.

3. Pouch at the underarm seam through the back

Cause: This will be found on short-waisted figures when the underarm seam is too long.

Correction: This could be altered in the pattern if the garment has not been cut, but if the garment has been made, the alteration must be made at the waist line by lifting the skirt to shorten the waist.

4. Fullness at the armhole in the back

Cause: This may be caused by—

1. Round or stooped shoulders.
2. The pattern being too long in the scye depth, or the space between the armpit and the neck.

Correction: For round or stooped shoulders, raise the back shoulder seam sufficiently to lift out the pouch. It may then be necessary to add tucks at the back of the neck to eliminate the fullness that may appear at the center back. If tucks are not desired, this extra fullness can be eliminated by making the shoulder seam slightly sloping toward the armhole.

If the pattern was too long, the dress has been cut too low at the underarm and must be raised at the armpit so as to rest against the arm. Raise the whole back section if necessary. (See No. 1—pouch across upper back.)

5. Armhole too low

Cause: The armhole is often cut too deep in the back for comfort when the dress has a fitted sleeve. This does not apply to the Dolman type sleeve.

The armhole should rest well up to the pit of the arm. The top of the underarm seam could be measured with a ruler placed across at the armpit. The top of the material should be even with the top of the ruler. Make this measurement one-half inch shorter for the underarm seams.

"Cutting out an armhole" is a tragedy. These are some of the consequences—

1. When the arm is raised, the dress will be drawn higher into the pit of the arm and will produce a drawing.
2. The sleeve-cap bulges.
3. The waist line is drawn upward.
4. The sleeve-cap draws across the arm.
5. The sleeve is tight through the back.
6. The dress may burst out in the back.

Correction: Rip out the sleeve and raise the back until the armhole rests well into the pit of the arm. Repin the shoulder seam as the back is raised sufficiently high to bring the dress to within a half-inch of the armpit.

The sleeve will also be altered. (See sleeve alterations.)

The Back

6. Garment too wide through the shoulders in the back

Cause: This misfit often occurs on figures that are narrow through the upper cross-back and wide through the lower crossback. This figure usually requires a large bust size pattern and will find the back too wide and the shoulder seam dropping too low on the arm.

The very erect figure often finds that the back of the pattern is too wide, as the bust is large in proportion to the back.

Correction: The garment that has been cut only a trifle too wide will find it possible to alter the dress by taking up a few tucks at the back of the neck.

The dress will necessarily be re-cut for the over-erect figure. The back will be too wide throughout and usually is too long in the depth of the back from the neck to the armpit. This is termed the "Scye Depth."

7. Dress too narrow through the shoulders

Cause: The figure may be unusually wide through the shoulders but is small through the bust, and the pattern that fits the bust size will be too narrow through the shoulders. In some cases the back is as much as two inches wider than the standard measurement.

Correction: If the dress has been cut it will be ruined unless the back can be re-cut wider or possibly the sleeves changed to a looser style so that the sleeve can ride up on the shoulder and thus widen the back.

8. Crosswise threads of material running up in the back

Cause: This defect is caused by the dress being too short in the Scye Depth. The crosswise threads should run straight from armpit to armpit. This is very noticeable in checked material as the lines of the checks will run upward in the center back. Coats on stoop-shouldered figures also show this defect as the lower edge of the coat will "hike" up in the back.

Correction: If the dress has been cut with a wide seam allowance, rip open the shoulder seam to the arm curve and drop the center back until the threads are straight from armpit to armpit.

If there is not sufficient seam allowance the following alteration will be necessary: The length of the center back cannot be changed and the sides must be raised; therefore, rip open the underarm seams, rip out the sleeves, and raise the shoulder seam at the arm curve until the thread of material is straight. It will then most likely be necessary to lower the arm curve a trifle on the back only. This will lengthen the Scye Depth.

This type of figure often finds the dress too long in the front from the armpit to the shoulder, while in the back the pattern was too short. (See directions for altering the front.)

9. Vertical fold in the back of the dress near the arm

Cause: This fold is necessary for freedom of motion and is required for comfort. This fold is visible when the figure is in a relaxed position with the arms to the side but will disappear when the arms are brought forward which indicates that, if this fold is fitted out, the dress will burst out in the back or will be most uncomfortable when in motion. The athletic tendencies of the present generation necessitate comfort.

The greatest strain on the dress is not in the wearing, but in removing the garment over the head. If this fold was removed, it would be almost impossible to cross the arms and remove the dress. If the dress is opened down the back or opened wide at the side placket and the garment is either sleeveless or has puff sleeves, the dress can be fitted closer in the back and also at the underarms.

10. Neck and shoulders sliding back

Cause: There may be one or more causes—

1. The back may be too short in the Scye Depth.
2. The shoulders may be sloping which causes the dress to be short in the center back.
3. The front may be too long from the chest line to the shoulder seam.

Correction: The alteration will be made in the shoulder seam. The front will either be lifted or the back will be lowered or both.

11. Wrinkles

Cause: The shoulders may be rounded or protruding, which makes the dress draw upward in the center back and indicates that the Scye Depth is too short.

Correction: If sufficient seam allowance has been made, the shoulder seam can be opened and the center back dropped to remove the drawing. This lengthens the Style Depth.

If the dress has no extra seam allowance, the dress must be re-cut in the back, dropping the armhole of the back only. In this case the front usually must be shortened, keeping the thread of material parallel with the floor at the bust line.

12. Diagonal wrinkles from the shoulder blades to the underarm seam

Cause: These wrinkles are caused by the lower crossback being too narrow. The upper crossback may be sufficiently wide but the figure enlarges through the lower back which will produce a drawing.

Sloping shoulders may also be responsible.

Correction: If there has been sufficient seam allowance in the armhole and the underarm seam, let out the seam so as to widen the back both at the armhole and at the underarm seam. This alteration will be made for full shoulders.

For sloping shoulders, the back must be raised at the armhole so as to lengthen the Scye Depth. This can only be done by ripping out the sleeve and opening the shoulder and lifting the back, fitting at the sleeve seam so as to eliminate the wrinkles. Re-pin the sleeve. (See sleeve alterations.)

13. Diagonal wrinkles from the neck to underarm seam

Cause: Again, the Scye Depth is too short. This will only be found when the neck fits high in the front and fits close, which does not permit the dress falling down in the back. The lower crossback may also be too narrow. Tight fitting also emphasizes this misfit.

Correction: The Scye Depth must be lengthened, by dropping the dress in the center back if there is sufficient seam allowance. If not, the back must be lifted and the armhole cut lower in the back ONLY so as to lengthen the Scye Depth.

14. Drawing through the armpits across the back

Cause: This is caused by the dress being fitted too closely, which is often found on large figures. When large figures are seated, the bust raises and if the garment has been fitted very tight when standing, it will draw.

Correction: If there is sufficient seam allowance, let out the underarm seam as much as required to eliminate the drawing when seated. If there is no seam allowance available, set in a gusset at the underarm and the same in the sleeve as the overtight sleeve is as much responsible for the drawing as the tight bodice.

15. Horizontal wrinkles at the base of the neck

Cause: This misfit is very noticeable in tailored garments as the material is heavy and will bulge. It is usually found on the more square-shouldered figure. The high armhole raises the garment at the neck; and, as the low neck holds the garment down, the garment will bulge.

Correction: Rip open the shoulder seam after removing the collar, lift the center back, and refit the shoulders until the bulge disappears.

16. Garment standing away from the neck in the back

Cause: This may be caused by—

1. The garment may be too long in the front, which allows it to slide back.
2. The garment may be too large.
3. The neck may be cut too wide in the back.
4. The shoulders may be narrow at the upper back.

Correction: If the back is too wide or the neck cut too large, take up tucks at the back of the neck. This will draw out the pouch.

If it is too long in the front from the armpits to the shoulders, open the shoulder seam and lift the front to draw out the bulge.

17. Garment too tight through the back

Cause: The figure evidently has a wide back in proportion to the front and the crossback has been made too narrow, either in the lower crossback or possibly both the upper and the lower crossback are too narrow.

Correction: The back must be made wider.

18. Drawing through the back when arms are brought forward

Cause: This may be caused by one or more difficulties which could have been avoided had the dress been cut sufficiently large.

1. The forearm of the sleeve may have been cut too small.
2. The lower crossback may be too narrow.
3. The upper sleeve may be too narrow.
4. The armhole in the back may be too low.

Correction: See sleeve fitting.

Rip out the sleeve in the back, put on the dress and as the arms are drawn forward, see if there is a gap between the sleeve and the back. If the sleeve cannot be repinned to the back with the arms folded in front, then the back is too narrow.

Many arms are very much out of proportion to the rest of the body. They vary as much as four inches for one bust size. If the sleeve is made too tight, the dress will draw through the back as well as in the sleeve.

Correction: Usually a new sleeve must be cut. This causes much discomfort on closely fitted dresses. To prove this, lift the back on any uncomfortable dress, pinning up a tuck from shoulder to shoulder (with the sleeve in). Notice the improvement in the feeling of the garment and the freedom with which the arms can be raised.

Open the shoulders, remove the cap of the sleeve (only) and lift the back of the dress at the shoulder seam in the back section only. Raise the dress to the pit of the arm in the back.

Repin the sleeve (see sleeve alterations).

19. Drawing at elbows when arms are flexed

Cause: This drawing is produced on a tightly fitted sleeve when there is not sufficient fullness in the elbow.

Correction: If there was sufficient seam allowed when cutting this can be altered. Open the sleeve from the elbow down to the wrist. Take up an additional dart at the elbow on the back edge of the sleeve. This produces a greater curve on the elbow and may necessitate letting out some of the seam at the elbow and will also make it necessary to lengthen the sleeve an inch on the back seam only, as the underarm seam will be shortened when the dart is lifted. This will relieve the drawing through the back and at the elbow.

20. Back too short at the underarm seam

Cause: Long-waisted figures often find the pattern too short at the underarm seam.

Correction: Split and spread the pattern below the armhole to the desired length.

21. Back too long at the underarm seam Cause: Short-waisted figures or short figures find the underarm seam too long.

Correction: Take a tuck across the pattern and shorten it to the desired length.

THE FRONT

Front of waist

Fitting the front of the dress is complicated by the darts that are necessary, not only to fit the curved surface of the front of a woman's figure, but also retain the straight thread of material. As you view the figure from the side, you will find that even though the figure may have a small bust size, and is not stoop shouldered, the shoulders will recede noticeably and this curve must be fitted with the use of darts or gathers or intricate cutting of the front.

1. Drawing from the neck to the armhole in front

Cause: The armhole is either too tight, or the figure is very erect, and the front is too short from the waist to the neck at the shoulder seam. Large arms or sloping shoulders also cause this difficulty.

Correction: Open the shoulder seam, and if there is sufficient seam allowance, drop the front at the neck of the shoulder seam. It may be found necessary to drop the whole shoulder, especially if the figure is very erect.

If the arm is very large for the size, the shoulder seam may have to be dropped to provide more armhole, or if the dress is broad through the chest, the front of the armhole may be clipped one-quarter of an inch. This small amount will provide much more room. Clip cautiously.

2. Dress pouching at the center front at the neck

Cause: Insufficient dart on the shoulder causes this bulging. A wide flat curve, cut for a neck line, when drawn together on the shoulders of the dress, draws the material into a pouch at the center front. The dress should lie flat across the chest.

Correction: Open the shoulder seam and smooth the dress across the chest toward the arms so as to remove the pouch. The pouch will then appear in its proper place as a shoulder dart. It can be taken up as a dart or in small tucks. If sufficient seam allowance was not made when cutting, the back of the neck must be trimmed out into more of a boat shape to match the front, or if there is to be a flat collar, the front corner might be filled in with a patch.

3. Pouch across the chest

Cause: This pouch usually appears when the figure is seated, and may be caused by the figure being very short in front from the armpits to the shoulders, or may be caused by the dress being fitted too tight through the bust line, especially at the armpits. The oversize arm will also cause a drawing across the chest and will produce a pouch.

Closely-corseted figures will find that the bust lifts when seated, due to the compression in the front at the waist line. Therefore, the dress should be fitted sufficiently loose to permit it to drop into an easy line when seated. A large figure too closely corseted gives the appearance of being larger than it is and should not be fitted too tight.

Correction: If the shoulder line of the front can be raised without altering the straight thread of material under the bust, then the front is too long, otherwise the front has been fitted too closely and must be let out. If there is no seam to let out at the underarm, nor any material to use for a gusset, it will be necessary to open the center front and set in a vest.

4. Front too long

Cause: The stooped figure will find that all her dresses will be too long in front from the armpit to the neck and the very short figure will often find the same difficulty.

Correction: The alteration must be made above the bust line if the underarm seam is the right length. Do not draw out the extra length at the waist; this will throw out the straight thread of material. Open the shoulder seam and rip out the sleeve and raise the front at the shoulders. Recut the neck to fit.

5. Waist too long at the underarm seam

Cause: The short-waisted figure or the short figure will find this difficulty. The older woman is usually shorter-waisted than she was in her more youthful days and patterns and dresses must be shortened at the underarm seam for her.

Correction: This alteration should be made in the pattern, taking up a tuck of equal width from the center front to the underarm seam. If this alteration was not made in the pattern, the dress must then be altered at the waist line.

6. Drawing across the chest

Cause: The figure that is over-erect and throws the shoulders back may find the chest too narrow, which will cause a drawing through the chest. This same drawing will be found on figures with over-large arms.

Correction: This figure cannot be fitted very closely through the chest. Open the front of the armhole and see if the sleeve gaps away from the bodice. If so, the chest is too narrow and must be widened if possible. The hands should be clasped in the back when fitting the chest.

An enlarged sleeve for the larger arm will also eliminate the difficulty.

7. Vertical fold in front at the armhole

Cause: This fold should appear when the figure is in a relaxed position but is needed when the hands are clasped in the back, which proves that it is necessary.

Correction: Do not eliminate this fold. The whole dress may be fitted closer to eliminate both the fold in the back and also in the front if the arm-curve is made very close up to the arm and the sleeve cap very short. Otherwise the dress will draw.

8. Shoulder too wide

Cause: This is often found on the figure with the large bust size but with a narrow upper crossback. The armhole seam will drop down on the arm, while the lower back may be the correct width.

Correction: The back can be made narrower at the upper crossback without removing the sleeves. The neck finish can be opened and small tucks taken at the back of the neck (they should be made from the wrong side).

If a shoulder dart is not desired, the sleeve must be removed and the surplus material eased out at the armhole curve. (See sleeves.)

9. Shoulders too narrow

Cause: Many figures have extra wide shoulders even though the bust size is not large.

Correction: The pattern should be checked through the shoulders before the dress is cut, for unless there is a wide seam allowed, the dress may be cut too narrow through the back and this cannot be remedied. An individual back may be two inches wider than the standard pattern. This is often found in the very thin figures. A piece set into the underarm seam to enlarge the sleeve cap will be helpful.

10. Waist too short in front from neck to waist

Cause: The very erect figure or the figure with sloping shoulders usually finds that the dresses are too short at the waist line. This is often attributed to shortness at the waist when the difficulty lies at the neck and shoulders.

Correction: If there has been additional seam allowed when cutting, the shoulders can be dropped to give the needed length. If the underarm seam is short, the extra length can be added below the bust line.

11. Diagonal drawing from underarm seam at waist

Cause: This drawing is caused by insufficient underarm dart and is usually found on the figure with the large bust. The figure with small hips in relation to the size of the bust often finds this difficulty.

Correction: Open the underarm seam and raise the front at the underarm into a dart sufficiently large to remove the drawing. The drawing may also be removed by placing a few gathers under the bust.

12. Pouch at the armhole in front

Cause: Insufficient dart arrangement has caused this difficulty. The dart as given may be correct for the standard figure, but the figure that is not of standard measurement will find a great deal of difficulty with this problem, especially the large woman. The amateur dressmaker often stitches out this dart at the arm curve by making a dart running from the arm curve toward the bust. This always denotes amateurish efforts, and reexeperience in fitting larger women. Several of these small darts are sometimes used in designing an evening gown.

Correction: If the armhole has been blocked out as suggested in the rules for seam-allowance, this pouch can be worked out easily. The dress should fit smoothly around the arm-curve without any pouch; therefore, smooth the material either upward or downward, and work out the pouch in either an underarm dart or a shoulder dart, whichever is preferred. A tailored style may use the shoulder dart, but otherwise the underarm dart is preferable.

Smooth the material upward toward the shoulder for the shoulder dart, bringing over the extra material that was blocked out when cutting the armhole. Allow at least one inch for looseness by pinning up one inch of material (one-half inch in dart) in the armhole when fitting. Smooth out the rest of the pouch toward the neck and take up the pouch that appears at the shoulder into a shoulder dart.

For the underarm dart, pin up one inch of the pouch for looseness and then smooth out the rest toward the underarm seam, drawing down the extra material in the armhole. Pin the underarm seam together as altered.

13. Dress "hiking up" in front

Cause: This is caused by the waist being too short down the front, and the alteration must be made in the waist and not in the skirt.

Correction: If possible, the waist should be dropped from the shoulders. If this is not possible, or the figure is very large in the abdomen, the skirt will be lifted at the waist line at the side seam and while the skirt will remain the same, the waist will be shortened at the side seam. In a one-piece front, this alteration can be made by taking up a dart at the waist line on the side seam, on the front only.

14. Shoulder seam "sticking up" at the neck

Cause: This is the result of square shoulders, the shoulder seam sloping too much from the neck to the arm, or the garment being too long from the armpit to the neck.

Correction: This can be altered by pinning out the surplus seam at the neck, both from the back and the front of the seam. It may also necessitate trimming out the back of the neck a trifle as the Scye Depth is short on square-shouldered figures.

15. Armhole too tight

Cause: The figure with over-large arms may find that the armhole is too tight.

Correction: Do not trim out under the arm. If the armhole is too tight, clip the front of the arm curve one-quarter of an inch. This will enlarge the armhole considerably. Be very careful not to clip too much.

16. Armhole too large

Cause: Many armholes are too large. The small armhole is very rare, but the large armhole is common.

Correction: If the armhole is cut deep under the armpit it will make it too large. In this case lift the shoulder seams and thus raise the dress closer to the pit of the arm.

If there is more than two inches looseness across the bust, the underarm seams may be taken up a trifle. The evening gown and the sleeveless dress can be fitted closer at the underarm than the dress with sleeves.

If the looseness in the armhole appears at the front curve in the form of a pouch, this denotes incorrect dart fitting and must be corrected. (See 12, pouch at the armhole.)

17. Armhole too high or too low Cause: Different figures require different armhole placement. The high armhole is seldom found as the dress drops from the shoulders. Correct costume fitting requires that the armhole be close to the pit of the arm.

Correction: The low armhole will be treated the same as when the armhole is too large (in the preceding paragraph). Lift the armhole to the pit of the arm if it hangs too low. It may be the front or it may be the back that needs lifting. Test with sleeves removed.

18. Large bust and small hips

Cause: The cause of this difficulty in fitting is that patterns are not cut for this type of figure.

Correction: If the dress is to be fitted smooth at the waist line, it will be necessary to lift an additional dart at the underarm seam. It is sometimes necessary to have three darts to fit the large bust.

Gathers at the waist placed under the bust also dispose of the surplus fullness.

THE SLEEVE

1. Drawing across the sleeve at the armpit

Cause: This drawing appears when the arm curve is cut too low at the underarm, which makes the sleeve cap too long and narrow across the top of the sleeve. This drawing also occurs on the overfleshy arm, as the sleeve cap is again too narrow.

Correction: Permit the sleeve to remain basted into the dress when fitting, as a test for the amount to raise. Lift the dress in the back between the shoulders, bringing the dress well into the armpit in the back. Pin this into a tuck between the shoulders. Then bring the customer's arms forward and notice that the drawing has disappeared and the dress is made far more comfortable. If the dress is made and cannot be easily ripped on the customer, remove it as pinned, cut a pattern of the altered dress back above the armpits, and rip out the sleeves at the top and sides only. Rebaste the shoulders as marked from the new back pattern, which will indicate that the whole back will be raised, both on the shoulders and at the neck.

The sleeve cap will now be too long. Run a basting thread around the top of the sleeve cap, basting off one inch or more at the top (do not cut). Then baste the altered sleeve line into the armhole easing in the fullness on the sides of the sleeves, not the top. The top of any sleeve is basted in with no fullness.

2. Sleeve drawing across the sleeve cap on a fleshy arm

Cause: The sleeve is too small for the arm. (Arms are often out of proportion.)

Correction: It is very difficult to alter the cap of a sleeve. It is advisable to purchase a new sleeve pattern of a larger size; keep it for a future guide for altering other sleeves and cut all sleeves to this size.

If , however, the sleeve must be altered on the customer, open the underarm seam, set in a gusset or let out the seam, and then trim out the lower curve of the sleeve one inch, as a trial. Do not trim off the sides, as they are now too narrow. Trimming out the curve will widen the sides but will shorten the sleeve. The sleeve will then be raised to the armhole of the dress and repinned, pinning off the top of the sleeve and not the sides of the sleeve cap. This alteration can be made only on short arms as it will shorten the sleeve.

3. Diagonal wrinkles across the front of the sleeve from the armpit to the elbow

Cause: These wrinkles appear on the fitted sleeve when the arm is raised but will disappear when the arm is lowered. The sleeve should not wrinkle when the arm is hanging to the side.

Correction: Some of these wrinkles can be eliminated by fitting the sleeve a trifle closer at the upper arm. These wrinkles merely denote the looseness in the sleeve if they only appear when the arm is raised. If the wrinkles are in the sleeve when the arm is lowered and are running downward toward the elbow, the sleeve cap may be too long. The elbow of the sleeve might even be too tight, which would also cause this drawing.

4. Wrinkles running from the armpit to the top of sleeve cap

Cause: These wrinkles run in the opposite direction to those described in paragraph 3 of this lesson. They will appear when the arm is relaxed. This indicates that the armhole in the dress is too low, or the sleeve cap is too short.

Correction: Lift the dress on the shoulders and see if the wrinkles disappear. It may be necessary only to lift the front and not the back. If the armhole is high and cannot be lifted, rip out the top of the sleeve and drop the cap.

5. Drawing across the top of the arm

Cause: Some sleeve patterns are cut with very narrow sleeve caps, especially for the large arm. In this case there will be an uncomfortable drawing across the sleeve cap from the back to front.

Correction: If the dress has been cut with extra seam allowance, the sleeve cap can be let out. Otherwise a larger sleeve must be cut.

6. Wrinkles across the sleeve below the armhole

Cause: This is caused by the arm being too large for the sleeve. The sleeve is too tight.

Correction: The sleeve must be enlarged at the upper portion either by letting out the seams or by setting in a gusset.

7. Vertical fold in front and in the back of the sleeve

Cause: This fold is necessary for freedom of motion. There will be a vertical fold both in back and front when the arm is hanging to the side but will disappear when the arm is brought to the front or drawn to the back, or when the arms are brought over the head.

Correction: Athletic tendencies require ease in the sleeves. If these folds are fitted out, it will place a strain on the dress and will soon burst out in the armhole. To prove this point, pin out this ease by narrowing the sleeve cap near the pit of the arm and note the result when the arms are in motion, especially raised above the head.

8. Large arm with small armhole

Cause: The arm with the surplus flesh hanging low on the upper arm requires a large sleeve but a small armhole.

Correction: This fitting can be accomplished by fitting the armhole closely and then taking up a small dart in the under edge of the sleeve cap. Do not attempt to ease in all the extra fullness in the sleeve cap. There should only be one and one-half inches ease in the whole sleeve cap.

9. Sleeve pulls toward the back

Cause: This is caused by incorrect fitting on the shoulders or incorrect sleeve setting.

Correction: Open the shoulders and lift up the front portion of the dress at the shoulder seam. It may also be necessary to drop the back shoulder seam. After the shoulders are fitted, drop the customer's arm to the side and smooth the sleeve to the top of the arm, evenly dividing the fullness on the back and the front of the sleeve. Pin the top to position and pin in the sleeve flat an inch and one-half on each side of the top. The sleeve must be flat for three inches across the top of the sleeve. Ease out all the remaining fullness on the sides of the sleeve, both the back and the front.

10. Sleeve short in the back or long in front

Cause: When the arm is unusually muscular, possibly in the lower arm, it gives the feeling of the sleeve drawing at the elbow or, as some express it, the sleeve is too short in the back. This is often found on very thin arms, as the lower-arm is large in proportion to the upperarm. When the upper-arm is closely fitted, the lower-arm is too tight and the sleeve will be too short in the back.

Correction: This alteration may be made on the pattern if one is aware of the necessity of the alteration before the dress is cut. The back of the sleeve requires more curve, and this can be secured by taking up a dart in the one-piece sleeve pattern, making the dart one-half inch at the front of the seam and graduating it to nothing at the back of the sleeve. This will shorten the front of the sleeve one inch, and this additional fullness must be taken up in an additional dart at the elbow. It may then be necessary to lengthen the sleeve by measuring the arm at the front of the seam.

If the sleeve has been cut with additional seam allowance, this extra dart can be lifted in the back edge of the sleeve seam and then fitted to the wrist. (See wrist fitting.)

11. Sleeve twisting

Cause: Many sleeve patterns are cut without any fullness at the elbow, and, if the wrist is then fitted closely, the sleeve will twist on the arm.

Correction: The same alteration will be made on this sleeve as is made on the sleeve that is short in the back. (See paragraph 10.)

12. Too much fullness in the top of the sleeve

Cause: This is usually the fault of the seamstress and not of the sleeve. If the sleeve is set in correctly there will be no apparent fullness in the sleeve cap. Too much seam may have been allowed on both the sleeve cap and armhole.

Correction: There should be one and one-half inches fullness in the sleeve cap, three-quarters of an inch on the back and three-quarters inch on the front of the sleeve. This fullness should all be eased out on the bias section of the sleeve cap, which is half way down on the back and front of the cap.

13. Sleeve too small

Cause: Many arms are too large for the pattern. The arm is out of proportion to the body.

Correction: A slight alteration can be made if an additional seam allowance has been cut. The seam can be let out and be made to fit. Otherwise it is advisable to purchase a larger sleeve pattern and then retain it as a guide for the sleeve cap that will be necessary to use on all sleeves thereafter. The sleeve may have to be recut. (Or see paragraph 2.)

14. Sleeve too large

Cause: The arm may be very small in proportion to the bust size, which will not only make the sleeve too large but the armhole will also be too large.

Correction: If there is to be much change, a new sleeve-pattern should be purchased and the sleeve recut. It is very difficult even for the experienced seamstress to "fit out" a sleeve. If the sleeve must be altered on the customer, take in the underarm seam, allowing at least one inch for ease on the upper arm. Do not change the underarm curve of the sleeve very much, as it will quickly become too small. Make little if any change at the top of the sleeve, and make the seam in the sleeve on the sides a trifle deeper than for the original pattern. Do not cut off any of the sleeve cap until tried on the customer.

15. Sleeve too small for the armhole

Cause: If the dress has been cut correctly from the pattern, the sleeve should fit the armhole with the additional ease that has been given, but if the sleeve is taken in and the body remains the same, then the armhole will be too large. On very large arms, the sleeve may fit correctly as to the circular size, but the armhole is too large for the customer and there seems to be a pouch of goods at the front of the waist at the armhole.

Correction: This requires refitting the front of the dress. (See front fitting; darts.) There is not sufficient dart arrangement, or this pouch would not appear. The front of the dress must be drawn down at the underarm into an additional underarm dart so as to draw out this pouch. If there has not been additional seam or material allowed when cutting the armhole (see additional seam allowance) it will be necessary to set in a gusset on the front of the waist at the underarm seam. The extra dart will make a smaller armhole.

16. Sleeve too tight below the elbow

Cause: The thin arm is more muscular than the fleshy arm and enlarges more when drawn up; hence the tightness on the lower arm when the arm is bent.

Correction: The sleeve must be enlarged below the elbow by letting out the back edge of the sleeve. If the additional seam has been allowed the sleeve can be opened below the elbow and the back edge of the seam curved out sufficiently to fit the arm as the arm is held up to the face. Retain the front edge of the sleeve, which is straighter than the back.

17. Sleeve too tight above the elbow

Cause: Some arms are very large just above the elbow. The flesh may hang in a pouch in some cases. This arm is often very difficult to fit with a closely-fitted sleeve, as the arm above the elbow is almost the same width as the upper arm and the lower arm is usually small.

Correction: This arm requires a peculiarly shaped sleeve, with a great deal of fullness in the elbow. Open the full length of the sleeve and let out the seam above the elbow, to fit the flexed arm. Darts will then be lifted in the back edge of the seam at the elbow, usually making three or four small darts. The lower arm will also be fitted as it is flexed. It is advisable to use a sleeve with a vertical dart.

Sleeve too long

Cause: The arm is short for the pattern.

Correction: The pattern will be altered above the elbow unless there is a special design of the sleeve that would throw it out of balance by reducing the length of the top only. Practically all arms require the change above the elbow.

Measure the length of the arm and shorten the pattern to this length by taking up a crosswise tuck across the pattern above the elbow.

If the sleeve is cut, it may be shortened at the wrist and the dart raised in the elbow.

19. Sleeve too short

Cause: The very long arm will find the pattern too short. Figures with extra broad backs often have normal length arms but the back shortens the sleeve. In this case it is the back section that requires the alteration.

Correction: The sleeve will also be lengthened above the elbow. Set in a crosswise strip of paper and lengthen the sleeve the desired amount. This must be done before the dress is cut.

20. Sleeve too large at the wrist

Cause: Many patterns do not give a fitted wrist that is desired in a fitted dress.

Correction: The alteration is made on the back edge of the sleeve seam from the elbow to the wrist. Draw the back of the seam under the front edge, retaining the line of the front edge of the sleeve. This will make a more bias seam line in the back. Take up the surplus in a dart at the elbow.

THE SKIRT

Skirt fitting A dress made with the waist cut in one with the skirt must be altered without recognizing any definite waist line, other than at the side seams, and unless the dress has been cut with additional seam allowance at the neck and shoulders, it may be necessary to sacrifice in the length at the hem when fitting.

This emphasizes the importance of making additional seam allowance as directed, for if the waist and skirt are cut separately, there will be no provision for a waist alteration. In fact there should be none made, except for the figure with the prominent abdomen or in shortening a waist at the side seams.

The waist and skirt should be joined together at the waist line permanently before fitting, as all alterations will be made elsewhere. (See fitting.)

1. Dress short in center front

Cause: If the dress is short in the center front it is due to insufficient length from the shoulder to the waist line and not from the waist line to the hem as is supposed. The dart at the underarm was not raised sufficiently to straighten the thread of material under the bust line, and hence the sagging at the side and the shortness in front.

Correction: Open the side seam and also the underarm seam so that an additional dart can be raised at the bust line in the front. If the figure has a prominent abdomen, this dart can be taken at the waist line.

2. Skirt stands out in front

Cause: This is usually found on loosely fitted skirts and in the peculiar posture where the figure stands with rounded shoulders, flat seat and prominent abdomen. This often occurs on a garment cut straight with no dart arrangement.

Correction: Rip open the side seams and lift the seam at the bust line, making a dart. If the figure is of the fatigue posture, the front of the waist may have to be raised at the neck and shoulders. The back may require lengthening at the neck and shoulders.

3. Skirt sagging on the sides Cause: Stretchy material may cause the skirt to sag on the sides, as the seam is heavy, but if firmly woven material sags, it is misfitting if the skirt is not full and the thread of material runs decidedly downward on the sides.

Correction: If the skirt sags on the sides, in the thread of material, it will usually be found that the front is also short. The side seams will then be raised in the underarm dart as directed in the previous paragraph.

4. Skirt "cups in" in front

Cause: This difficulty is often encountered on the figure with the prominent abdomen when the hips are fitted too close. This type of figure should not wear the molded hip line but should rather fit the hips a trifle looser.

Correction: If there is sufficient seam allowance it is advisable to let out the side seams until the front drops into its correct position, hanging straight down from the waist.

5. Side seam drawing toward the front

Cause: Posture causes this difficulty the fatigue posture in this case-where the seat is flattened and the abdomen protrudes. This throws the back of the skirt in and the front out.

Correction: The back of the skirt should be raised at the belt line and at the side seams. This will lengthen the front in proportion to the back and sides and will straighten the seams at the sides. The side seams should hang perpendicular to the floor.

6. Side seams drawing toward the back

Cause: Posture also causes this difficulty. The sway back figure usually has a large seat and the extra material needed in the back will draw the seam toward the back. The additional length needed in the center back for this figure also draws up the material in the center and will draw the side seams back.

Correction: The front of the skirt must be lifted, or possibly the whole front lifted at the shoulders. The main fitting will be made in the back at the waist line either in a crosswise dart, fitted to the curves of the body, or darts may be made in the skirt at the side back. A separate skirt for this type of figure should be made with darts on both sides of the center back rather than fitting closely at the waist line on the sides. The darts will insure keeping the crosswise thread of material straight at the hips from side to side.

7. Deep in-curve in back at waist

Cause: This deep curve is prominent because all the bodily curves are shown. This type of figure usually has a large abdomen also.

Correction: This defect can be corrected by "optical illusion". Drop the waist line for two or three inches below the natural waist line both in the front and in the back; this will lengthen the waist line and the deep curve of the back will be covered.

8. Prominence of the abdomen diminished

Cause: The garment has been made so as to emphasize the abdomen and the design should be altered to produce a different effect.

Correction: The waist line should be lowered. This figure should never wear a defined natural waist line. In lowering the waist line the curves of the body are less emphasized and the lines are straighter.

The prominence of the abdomen is also greatly diminished if the dress is fitted looser. This type of figure should not wear the molded lines. The dress should fall almost straight down from the waist to the hem. It should not cut under below the abdomen.

The side seams should be opened if possible or the skirt may be raised.

9. Hips too tight Cause: Many figures are larger in the hips than in the bust in pattern proportions. In this case the pattern may be too small in the hips. This type of figure requires the dress cut larger through the hips.

Correction: If the dress has been cut with ample seam allowance, the side seams can be let out. The pattern should be checked and extra allowance made when cutting.

10. Thighs too tight

Cause: Many figures are heavy in the thighs, which is about four inches below the hip line. This figure spreads greatly when seated and, if the dress is fitted closely at the hip line, the side seams will be too tight when the figure is seated.

Correction: This figure requires more slant to the side seams. They cannot be cut as straight as the skirt for the small-thigh woman, even though her hips may be large. There must be room for spreading below the hip line. This will make the lower edge of the skirt wider, as it is usually necessary to add at least two inches at the hem line on the side of each side seam. This will enlarge the lower edge of the skirt eight inches. Extra allowance must be made when cutting the garment.

11. Hips too loose

Cause: Many figures are larger in the bust than in the hips in relation to the pattern. This will require alterations on the side seams.

Correction: The side seams must be fitted closer. The line of the seam should run straight dorm the side from the underarm to the floor. If the figure is large through the front, the alteration may be made on the back portion of the seam only. If the figure is large in the back, the alteration will be made on the front seam only.

12. Seams bursting on the side

Cause: This is caused by the thighs being fitted too closely. Seams seldom split if the hip line only is fitted close. The strain is below the hip line.

Correction: The side seams should be cut wider to allow for the spread of the thighs when seated. Raise the skirt if possible. This allowance must be made when cutting the garment.

13. Pleats drawing

Cause: This again is usually caused by the thighs being full and the figure spreading when seated.

Correction: There should be no change made on the pleats, but the side seams should be widened. Pleats should be considered as a flat piece of the skirt, and should be fitted as they are basted together. If the closely basted pleats draw, then the skirt will also draw when finished.

14. Pleats standing open

Cause: If pleats are not basted flat along the edges and pressed before they are set into the dress, or before they are stitched across the top, they will surely spread when the customer is seated. Tight thighs may also be the cause.

Correction: If the dress is made the pleated section must be ripped out and basted flat and pressed before it is set into the dress. Be sure and press the top of the pleats before stitching them down. To test for tight thighs, open the side seams from the hips down and see if it spreads. Pin together in an easy fitting,

15. Pleats sagging

Cause: The lower edge of pleats will sag on the under side of the hem unless they are made correctly.

Correction: Rip out the hem; baste each pleat down the outer edge to the edge of the material with the hem open. After the pleats are basted to the lower edge, the mark for the hem will then be made across the pleats and the hem will be pressed in with a warm iron, as pleated. Do not remove the bastings until the hem is pressed in. The beatings are then removed and the hem is basted up on the crease. The hem is then made and pressed. (See lesson on pleats.)

16. Skirt "cupping under" the seat

Cause: Posture may cause this difficulty when the abdomen is thrust out and the back is thus flattened. The skirt will then pouch out in the front and drop in below the seat in the back. The hips and thighs may also be too tight.

Correction: This can be corrected by lifting the back at the waist line either with a crosswise dart at the waist or by lifting the whole back. If the hips or thighs are too tight, the seam must be let out or the skirt must be raised at the waist line.

17. Changing location of fullness in circular skirt

Cause: The difference in the draping qualities of material often produce the undesired effect in the fullness on a circular skirt.

Correction: The circular section is usually set on to a yoke. The location of the fullness can be changed by ripping off the yoke and lifting the circular section in the place where it is desired.

18. Skirts sagging

Cause: This may be caused by posture if the dress is new, or the material may have been drawn out of shape in cleaning, or the dress may not be fitted correctly at the shoulders, or the material may be sagging on the bias.

Correction: If the dress has been fitted according to the rules given herein, the material may be sagging on the bias and the skirt will require rehanging.

19. Skirt too long

Cause: Be sure that the waist line is fitted correctly before judging the skirt. Fit the waist line first.

Correction: The skirt can be shortened two inches without destroying the design of the garment, but more than that would be detrimental, unless the skirt yoke is also altered. In this case one-third should be taken from the yoke and two-thirds taken from the lower edge of the skirt. The pattern should be altered before the dress is cut to save material.

20. Skirt too short

Cause: This alteration is more difficult if the dress has been cut or a short dress is to be remodeled.

Correction: It is always advisable to lengthen the pattern before cutting the dress. Unless a hem has been allowed, the short dress may prove a tragedy. There are very few ways that a dress can be lengthened without being noticed. If a yoke effect is set into the skirt to lengthen, then there should be some of the same material used in the waist and sleeves to balance the design.

Most fashion papers offer designs that can be used for remodeling, making separate waists and skirts, or combining two different materials in a garment. It would be advisable to select one of these patterns and follow it as closely as possible.

Coats can be lengthened more easily as to the design. A piece can be set on the lower edge in a pointed design, so as to make it appear that the coat was so designed. The material should match as closely as possible. If not, the same material should be used for collars and cuffs.

21. Shortening flares

Cause: Circular flares should be shortened in the pattern if possible. If the fullness is all cut from the lower edge, the fullness will be sacrificed.

Correction: Measure the pattern down the center front and center back to determine the amount to be shortened. Fold the pattern on the center line about half the distance between the hem and the upper edge. Make the fold even along the center edge. Then flatten the fold or tuck across the full width of the pattern. It will not run straight with the hem line but will be straight with the thread of material. A new side line can be made joining the uneven line made by the fold.