1933—Principles of Tailoring
Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken

Table of Contents

Preface

Essentials of Tailoring

Scope of Tailoring

Tailoring Equipment

• Sponge and Press Clothes
• Brushes
• Irons
• Ironing Board
• Edge and Seam Pressers
• Ham Cushion
• Cheese Block
• Tailors' Press Stand
• Pinking Machine or Scissors

Shrinking Woolen Materials

Tailored Seams and Plackets

Precautions in Making Tailored Seams

Kinds of Seams

• Plain Seam
• Single-Stitch Seam
• Double-Stitch Seam
• Cord Seam
• Welt Seam
• Double-Stitched Welt
• Tuck Seam
• Slot Seam
• Overlapped Seam
• Lap Seam
• Strap Seam
• Variation of Stitching on Tailored Seams

Requirements of Tailored Plackets

Kinds of Plackets

• Plain-Seam Placket
• Welt-Seam Placket
• Tuck-Seam Placket
• Habit-Back Placket
• Inverted-Plait Placket
• Location of Placket Openings

Tailored Buttonholes, Buttons, and Trimmings

Tailored Buttonholes

Characteristics and Types

Buttonhole Tools and Materials

• Buttonhole Cutters
• Buttonhole Scissors and Punches
• Buttonhole Gimp
• Stranding Thread
• Buttonhole Thread
• Thimble
• Stiletto

Making a Tailored Buttonhole

• Foundation for Tailored Buttonhole
• Position and Size of Buttonholes
• Marking Buttonholes
• Outlining Buttonholes
• Cutting Buttonholes
• Securing the Edges of Buttonhole Slits
• Stranding Buttonholes
• Working Buttonholes
• Pressing and Finishing
• Commercial Buttonhole Making

Simulated Buttonholes

Bound Buttonholes

• Material-Bound Buttonhole
• Braid-Bound Buttonhole

Buttons and Other Trimmings

• Buttons for Strictly Tailored Garments
• Crowfeet, Arrowheads, and Bow-Tacks
• Tailors' Straps
• Knots for Frogs and Other Fancy Trimmings
• Tassels
• Fringe

Tailored Pockets

Types and Essentials

Stand Pocket

• Size and Position of Pocket
• Preparing the Stand Pattern
• Marking the Garment Material for Matching
• Cutting Out the Stand
• Cutting Out the Canvas Interlining
• Putting the Stand Together
• Pocket Linings
• Lining the Stand
• Placing the Reinforcing Strip
• Placing and Basting the Stand in Position
• Preparing the Material for the Pouch
• Joining the Stand and the Pouch
• Cutting the Pocket Opening
• Completing the Pocket
• Stand-Pocket Variations

Flap Pocket

• Determining the Position
• Preparing the Flap Pattern
• Cutting Out the Flap
• Making the Flap
• Applying the Reinforcing Strip and Flap
• Applying the Pouch Portion
• Completing the Pocket
• Flap-Pocket Variations

Welt, or Slit, Pocket

• Preparing the Pattern for the Curved Opening
• Preparing the Material for the Pocket
• Securing the Pocket Material to the Garment
• Cutting the Pocket Opening
• Finishing the Pocket Opening
• Making the Pouch Portion
• Finishing the Pocket
• Slit-Pocket Variations

Simplicity Welt Pockets

• Making the Simplicity Welt Pocket
• Choosing the Material for the Pouch Portion

Patch Pockets

• Nature of Patch Pockets
• Plain Patch Pocket
• Patch Pocket with Strap and Flap
• Box-Plaited Patch Pocket
• Patch-Pocket Variations

Bound Pockets

• Making the Pocket Opening
• Making and Applying the Pouch Pieces
• Completing the Pocket

Examination Questions