1933—Principles of Tailoring
Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken
Tailored Pockets
TYPES AND ESSENTIALS
1. By tailored pockets are meant all pockets used in tailored garments, with the exception of those in coat linings, regardless of their style or position. The pockets used in linings, properly termed lining pockets, will prove very simple in construction after a knowledge of tailored pockets is gained. There are only five distinct standard types of tailored pockets, namely, the stand pocket, the flap pocket, the welt, or slit, pocket, the patch pocket, and the bound pocket. Each type, however, is subject to many modifications in shape, some pockets assuming an entirely different appearance from the original of its type. It is well to remember, though, that the details of finishing pockets that vary from the original types will not be difficult, for the principle of making them always remains practically the same.
2. In considering the style, shape, position, and size of tailored pockets, it is important to know that they are governed more or less by prevailing styles at the time they are made, by the style of the garment in which they are to be placed, by the taste of the person that is to use them, and by their purpose. Such pockets are employed in both long and short coats, in skirts, and in dresses. If a pocket is to be used on the breast of a coat, it is generally put on the left side, but there are cases where a breast pocket is placed on each side. If two pockets are used in this way, however, they are generally made smaller than if only one is used, as they are intended more for ornament than for service. The stand and the welt type of pocket are used most frequently in such places, although the flap and patch types are sometimes employed.
3. The all-important considerations in the making of tailored pockets are accuracy and neatness, for to have a perfect pocket the material must always match, whether it is the design or the grain. To beginners, such tailoring work may seem difficult, yet by studying each type of pocket diligently and doing the actual construction on each so as to come to know every little detail, no tailored pocket will be too hard to make. Really, the first step to success in work of this kind is a full appreciation of how much neatly made pockets add to tailored garments from the standpoint of both utility and ornament, and the next step is to be willing to spare no effort in the careful working out of every detail.
STAND POCKET
4. The first of the tailored pockets to be considered is the stand
pocket,
an example of which is shown in Fig. 1. This type of
pocket really consists of two parts—the stand, or part that serves
as a finish for the opening, and is the only part visible, and the pocket
proper, or pouch, which is inside the garment, that is, between the outside
material and the lining. The stand pocket is very effective on garments of
firm material that have wide stitching, as it imparts to them the smart look
so much sought by wearers of tailored garments. As a rule, the stand pocket
is used simply as a breast pocket, but sometimes it is placed below the waist
line at the sides of garments; also,
it is used in skirts and in dresses. The pocket here shown is for the left
breast, and its lines are diagonal. Of course, as such pockets may be placed
in other positions and, as is explained later, the lines may assume various
shapes, it is well in making them to be careful to have the lines run in
the directions that will harmonize with the other lines of a garment.
So that a good knowledge of the way in which to make a stand pocket may be gained, the construction of the pocket illustrated in Fig. 1 is taken up in detail. To get the best results, the actual work should be done, but not before each step has been carefully studied and is clearly understood.
5. Size and Position of Pocket.—When the stand pocket is used as a breast pocket, the stand is generally made 3½ to 5 inches wide and about 1 inch deep, and the pocket proper, or part that forms the pouch, about 3½ to 5 inches wide and of the same depth. As mentioned before, however, the size of pockets varies and may be made to meet requirements.
The position of the pocket is usually marked in the first fitting of the garment in which it is to be used, especially if it is to serve as the breast pocket in a coat. After marking the pocket, observe its general effect in comparison with the coat design in order to insure correct size and shaping.
6. Preparing the Stand
Pattern.—The first step in the making of a
stand pocket is to
make a pattern for the stand, no pattern being necessary for the other part
of the pocket. To make such a pattern for the pocket shown in Fig. 1, proceed
as follows, using Fig. 2 as a guide:
On a piece of paper of suitable size, using a ruler or a square, draw first a rectangle, each side of which is 3½ inches and each end of which is 2¼ inches, lettering the corners A, B, C, and D, as -shown. Next, locate point E 1 1/8 inches below D on line AD, and point F 1 1/8 inches above B on line BC. Then connect B and E as well as F and D, with diagonal lines, as shown. If desired, the upper corners may be rounded off a trifle, as indicated by the dotted lines.
With the outline thus completed, form the pattern by cutting from B to E, from E to D, from D to F, and from F to B; if rounded corners are wanted, cut on the dotted lines. At the same time, also, so that there will be no danger of mistaking the top of the pattern for the bottom when using it as a guide in cutting out materials, cut a small notch in the pattern on the bottom line, as indicated in the illustration.
7. Marking the Garment Material for Matching.—Having prepared the pattern as directed, proceed next to locate the position of the stand on the garment material, so as to assist in matching the material of the stand and the garment. Good judgment must be exercised in doing this work, because it is imperative that the weave and the design of both materials match perfectly at the place where the pocket is to appear. It is necessary, also, to take into consideration the side of the garment on which the pocket is to come, as well as the direction in which it is to slant.
In this case, as the pocket is for the left side of the coat, pin the pattern
on as shown in Fig. 3; that is, so that its ends are parallel with the lengthwise
stripes or grain of the cloth and the highest
part of the pattern when in this position will come at the left when the
garment is on the wearer.
In placing the pattern, it is well to bear in mind that best results will be obtained by having its ends come between the stripes instead of directly on them; and, in order to make certain that the pattern edges are parallel with the stripes, crease the pattern at the exact edge of one of the prominent stripes, as shown at a. This crease in the pattern is valuable later in cutting out the stand material, for by placing it on the same stripe as in the garment material accuracy will be assured.
With the pattern correctly placed, outline its sides and its lower edge on the garment material with tailors' white chalk, as shown; tailors' colored chalk should always be avoided in such work, as it is next to impossible to remove it from some materials.
8. When striped material is used for a garment and there is a seam down its front, as in the semifitted coat, it is often difficult to match all the stripes. In a case of this kind, therefore, the best plan is to match only the stripes in the front section, rather than those in the side section. Otherwise, the procedure is the same as that just mentioned.
9. Cutting Out the Stand.—After determining just where the stand
is to come on the garment, the cutting out of the stand
material so that it will match that of the garment is simple. To do this
work properly, proceed as shown in Fig. 4.
Place the stand pattern on a piece of the material in exactly the same way as directed for marking the position of the stand on the garment. Make sure to have the pattern slant the same and to have the ends come on the same stripes of the cloth; also, turn back the pattern on the creased line to see that the crease comes along the edge of the same stripe as in the garment material. Then pin the pattern securely in place and cut out the stand, allowing ½ inch all around the pattern for the finish and turnover. To insure accuracy, this allowance may be marked with chalk.
Before removing the pattern from the material thus cut out, run a basting thread all around the pattern or mark the material with tailors' chalk, so that the true outline of the stand will be known in making the pocket. Basting is the more satisfactory, as the chalk lines are so easily rubbed off and losing the pattern lines would cause trouble in the matching of the design or the weave of the materials.
10. Cutting Out the Canvas
Interlining.
—
In order to prevent the stand
of the pocket from sagging when it is on the garment, an interlining of canvas
is generally inserted between the stand material and its lining. To cut out
this interlining, proceed as shown in Fig. 5, using a piece of lengthwise
canvas that has been shrunk. After pinning the pattern in place, as shown,
cut the
canvas exactly the same size as the pattern at the sides and the top, but
at the bottom allow ½ inch for a seam and cut a notch in it,
as shown in Fig. 6.
11. Putting the Stand Together.—With the material and the interlining for the stand cut out, you are ready to put them together. Pin the canvas to the wrong side of the material and baste them together, basting from the right side of the material. With the right side of the material still up, turn all edges except the lower edge over on the canvas, being sure to follow the marked pattern lines carefully, and then baste them as shown in Fig. 6, always basting from the right side in such cases. These edges must be turned absolutely true, so that the lines of the finished pocket will be as perfect as possible.
Next, miter the corners as at a, first trimming the corners as at b and then whipping them as at c. If the corners are rounded, take care to bring them down well when whipping the material edges, so that a graceful, curved line will be obtained.
Now press the stand from the wrong side, and then stitch it. The stitching should be the same in width as the outside stitching on the seams of the garment, which usually varies from 3/8 to 5/8 inch from the edge. If the corners of the stand are round or if sufficient practice has not been had in turning accurate corners, it is advisable to outline the position of the machine stitching with basting threads. If the stitching is not outlined in this way, then the gauge of the sewing machine must be used because the stitching on the stand portion must be accurate.
When the stitching is done, remove all basting except that which marks the depth of the stand, and then press the stand again, this time, however, from the right side and with a damp cloth laid over the material. The stand is now ready for the lining.
12. Pocket Linings.—Before taking up the lining of the stand, it may be well to consider the material to be used in lining pockets. For the stand or the flap of a pocket, a very good quality of satin or silk is most suitable, and for the pouch part, especially if a durable pocket is desired, sateen of close weave is very satisfactory. Because of the fact that a pocket flap or a pocket stand comes on the outside of a garment, the lining material for it should harmonize in color.
13. Lining the Stand.
To line the stand, it is necessary to use a piece of lining of exactly the
same size as the stand material, for when the seam edges of the lining are
turned down they will come well inside the stand portion and will not show
on the right
side. Therefore, lay the stand pattern on a piece of the lining material,
taking care to have the weave of the lining run the same as that of the stand
material, and cut the lining. Then place the wrong side of the lining to
the wrong side of the stand and slip-stitch the lining to the stand, as shown
in Fig. 7, using small stitches. Next, press the stand again, and it will
be ready to be applied to the garment.
At this time, also, to serve as a guide in stitching the stand to the garment, run a basting thread from the right side, as shown at a, through the lining in the mark-stitching.
14. Placing the Reinforcing
Strip.—To strengthen the finished pocket,
it is necessary to place underneath the opening a strip of lining, usually
a firm, plain cotton, that is 3 inches in depth and 2
inches wider than the stand portion. This strip must be cut so that its lengthwise
threads will run parallel with the opening and the
lower edge of the stand, for it must neither give nor pull out of shape.
In placing this strip, put it on the wrong side of the material, allowing
two-thirds of it to extend above the mark for the pocket opening. Then turn
over the material with the strip pinned to it and baste the strip on, as
shown in Fig. 8, basting from the right side
of the garment material in order to have it perfectly smooth.
15. Placing and Basting the
Stand in Position.—When the reinforcing
strip is in position, it is next in order to place the stand
in its proper place and baste it. Therefore, to be absolutely sure that the
stripes of the stand and the garment materials match exactly, pin the stand
on as illustrated in Fig. 9; that is, so that the basting in the stand is
directly over the diagonal chalk mark on the garment and its ends come at
the vertical chalk marks. If it differs even a trifle when placed according
to the original marks,
remove the stand and again mark along each end of the stand, as at a and
b, for it is imperative that the matching be accurate.
Having matched the material correctly, remove the pin, turn the stand so that its top will be downwards, and then place it so that its right side will be to the right side of the garment, its basting directly over the diagonal chalk mark, and its ends on points a and b. Then, after pinning it in this position, baste it in place, basting through all thicknesses and lifting the ends of the stand so as to make certain that it is straight and that the stripes match exactly.
16. Preparing the Material for the
Pouch.—To prepare the
lining material that is to form the pocket portion, or pouch, first,
cut out two pieces of lining, making each about 5 inches square, and then
pin them so that their right sides are together, as in Fig. 10. Next, to
give the top of the pocket portion exactly the same slant as the stand and
thus permit it to hang straight across the bottom, as it should, draw a diagonal
line from a point 1 1/8 inches below the upper left-hand corner of the lining
material, as at a, on the lengthwise edge, to the upper right-hand
corner and cut along this line. At
this time, also, round off the lower corners, in the manner shown in the
illustration.
17. Joining the Stand and
the Pouch.—Unpin the two pouch pieces and
baste them in place, as shown in Fig. 11. Baste one piece over the pocket
stand so that the stitches will come exactly in line with the basting on
the stand, as at a, and the other piece as at b, leaving
a space of just ½ inch between the basting of the pieces and taking
care not to catch the
raw edges of the stand portion. Keep a true basting line in each case and
extend it exactly to the ends of the stand portion and no farther.
As will be observed, the seam edges of the pouch material overlap a trifle;
this, however, is as it should be, because an ample seam
allowance is required to prevent the pocket from pulling out when in use.
With the basting done, stitch the pouch pieces in the manner shown in 
Fig.
12. First, stitch the piece over the stand, stitching through the basting
that holds the stand to the garment and just to the end of the stand, or
termination of the basting, as at a. Then stitch the other pouch
piece along the basting, beginning ¼ inch from one end of the basting and
ending ¼ inch
from the other end. The
stitching must be shorter on this side than on the other, so that it will
not show when the stand is turned in its proper position. Then, too, sufficient
space must be left between the stitchings to permit the ends of the pocket
to be finished and thus made secure. When the stitching is completed, bring
the ends of the thread through to the wrong side and fasten them securely;
then remove all bastings that have been replaced with stitching.
18. Cutting the Pocket Opening.—So that the opening for the pocket may be cut, turn the seam allowance back, as shown at b and c, Fig. 12. Then, with a pair of very sharp-pointed scissors, cut the opening, inserting the point of the scissors at the center, as at d, and cutting from the center to within ¼ inch of each end of the stand stitching, as indicated at e. Next, cut precisely to each corner of this stitching in a diagonal line, exercising the greatest care, for the clipping should not extend so far as to weaken the ends of the pocket. By cutting the corners in this manner, there remains at each end a triangular piece that must be secured to the lining later.
19. Completing
the Pocket.—With the opening thus made, turn the pocket pieces to the wrong
side by slipping them through the opening, when the
outside of the pocket will appear as shown in Fig. 13.
Next, baste the lower edge of the stand, as at a, slipping two fingers of the left hand underneath the stand and in the opening, so that the underneath portion of the pocket will not be caught. Next, secure the triangular piece at each end of the opening to the under pouch part, as at b. Then, so as to make sure that the pocket will "set" perfectly, and, if of striped material, that the stripes will match exactly, baste the upper edge of the stand to the garment, as at c.
With
the stand thus basted and the triangular portions secured, turn the garment
over so that the wrong side of the pocket is up,
as in Fig. 14, and fasten the ends of the stand from the wrong side with
buttonhole twist, as at a and b. In doing this, begin at the bottom of
the stand and take short, diagonal stitches to the top of the stand; then,
reversing
the direction of the stitch, work down to the starting point, crossing
the stitches, as shown. Do not let these stitches go through to the outside
of
the stand.
Next, baste the pouch portions together, trim them off evenly, and stitch them, as at c, being careful to catch the reinforcing strip. If the lining is likely to fray, overcast the edges, as at d. Finally, remove all basting, and press the pocket thoroughly. When thus completed, the stand pocket will appear on the right side as in Fig. 1 and on the wrong side as in Fig. 14.
20. Stand-Pocket Variations.—As has been mentioned, each type of pocket
is subject to many modifications in shape. To form a definite idea of some
of the variations of the stand pocket, note the examples given in Fig. 15.
These pockets differ only so far as shape is concerned, and no difficulty
will be encountered in making them or other styles, or even in creating different
shapes, provided the construction and finishing of the stand pocket just
discussed are thoroughly understood.
FLAP POCKET
21. The next type of tailored pocket to be considered is the flap
pocket,
one style of which is illustrated in Fig. 16. This pocket also consists of
two parts—the flap, which serves both as a finish for the pocket opening
and as protection for the pocket itself, and the pouch, which is similar
to that of the stand pocket. The flap pocket is a very desirable one, as
it is adaptable to nearly all tailored fabrics and its size, shape, and position
can be varied to give
pleasing effects on many kinds of garments.
The materials required for the flap pocket—that is, for the lining and the reinforcement—are practically the same as those for the stand pocket, and, in fact, the making of this type of pocket differs very little from the making of the other type, it being necessary also to match the material very accurately. As will be observed, the flap of this type of pocket resembles the stand of the other, its chief difference being that it is placed in the reverse position.
22. Determining the Position.—Flap pockets are generally placed at the sides of garments, and as a rule two pockets are made at the same time, one for each side. In such a case, therefore, so that the pockets will be exactly the same in size and shape when finished, mark-stitching must be used to mark the pattern lines of the flap, as well as the position of the pocket on the garment.
The position and the width of the flap pocket should be decided in the first fitting. The exact place where the pocket is to come should be determined when the garment is on, the location usually being governed by Dame Fashion, who calls for different positions, sizes, and shapes each season. The procedure, when these points are decided, is to mark with tailors' chalk the exact position and approximate size, remove the garment, pin it together carefully so that the seams or pattern edges on each side will correspond exactly, lay the garment out on a flat surface, and carefully mark-stitch on the chalk line through both thicknesses of the garment so that the pocket will come exactly in the same position on each side.
23. Preparing the Flap
Pattern.—The only pattern required for the flap
pocket is that for the flap. To get the dimensions required for the pattern
in the actual making of flap pockets in garments, it is necessary to measure
the chalked outline. To make a pattern for the pocket shown in Fig. 16, which
is of average size, proceed as shown in Fig. 17, using a piece of paper of
suitable size.
First, draw a rectangle, each of whose sides is 4½ inches and each of whose ends is 2¼ inches, lettering the corners A, B, C, and D, as shown. Next, locate point E ¼ inch to the right of B on line AB and point F ¼ inch to the left of D on line CD. Then connect points A and F, as well as C and E, with diagonal lines. If slightly rounded corners are desired at the lower edge of the flap, the pattern may be so marked, as indicated by the dotted lines.
With the drafting thus completed, form the pattern by cutting from A to F, from F to C, from C to E, and from E to A. For round corners, cut on the dotted lines.
24. Cutting Out the Flap.—With the pattern thus prepared, proceed to cut out the material required for the flaps. Pin the flap pattern on a double thickness of the garment material, placing it so that the stripe, or at least the weave, of the flap material will match that along the pocket mark of the garment material; in other words, match the material in the manner explained for the stand pocket.
If the material is dark, outline the pattern edges with tailors' white chalk; then cut all the way around the pattern, allowing 3/8 inch for seams, and, after removing the pattern, mark-stitch all the chalk lines. If the material is of the kind on which tailors' white chalk will not show, cut the material in the manner directed, but mark-stitch around the pattern before removing it. With the material cut out, cut the pieces of lining required for the flaps, making them the same in size as the pieces of material for the flaps.
25. Making the Flap.—Next, proceed with the making of each flap. To do this work correctly, place the right side of the lining to the right side of the material and baste them together from the cloth side, beginning at the top of one end and continuing around to the top of the other, but not across the top. In basting, hold the flap material a trifle full in order that the lining will be a little smaller; then, when the flap is stitched, the lining will not show along the edges.
With the basting done, stitch just outside of the mark-stitching where
it is basted, as shown at a, Fig. 18, continuing to the edge, as
at b and
c. Do not
stitch the upper edge of the flap, as it must be left open to permit the
flap to be turned right side out.
Next, remove all basting and mark-stitching threads except the mark-stitching at d, which indicates the top of the flap, and trim the seam edges in the manner shown at e, trimming, in firm material, to within 1/8 inch of the stitching.
Now, turn the flap right side out and baste it a scant ¼ inch from the edge, taking care that the seam is rolled out to the edge. Then baste another row about ½ inch from the first row, using a short basting-stitch to hold the edge firm. When the basting is completed, press the flap thoroughly, and, after adjusting the gauge of the sewing machine, stitch the bottom and ends of the flap the same distance from the edge as the seams of the garment are stitched, usually 3/8 to 5/8 inch. If no stitching appears as a seam trimming on the right side of a garment, then the flap should be carefully pressed and applied without stitching on the outer edge.
Next, remove all the basting at the edge, and then run a basting through the lining along the upper edge at the mark-stitching. This marking is done so that it will show on the lining side, and also so that the mark-stitching can be taken out at this time in order to avoid catching it when stitching the flap in position with the sewing machine.
26. Applying the Reinforcing Strip and Flap.—Having made the flap in the manner directed, it is next in order to secure it to the garment, to make the opening, and to apply the pouch part of the pocket. As in making the stand pocket, it is first advisable to place a reinforcing, or stay, strip in position. Therefore, pin to the wrong side of the garment material a lengthwise stay strip of firm, plain cotton that is 2 inches deep and 1½ inches longer than the width of the pocket, placing it so that its lengthwise center is directly under the chalk marks on the material, and then baste it in position.
Next, baste the flap to the material in the manner shown in Fig. 19; that
is, with its right side to the right side of
the material and its basting line directly on the chalk mark on the garment
material. The flap is turned upward.
27. Applying the Pouch Portion.—As in making the stand pocket, cut out the lining material for the two pieces that form the pouch. Cut each of these pieces 1½ inches wider than the flap or the pocket opening, but make the depth of only one equal to the desired depth of the pocket; for the other, make the depth 2 inches less than the pocket depth, but to this piece, as shown at a, stitch a lengthwise strip of the garment material that is 2 inches in depth and of a width equal to the width of the piece. This strip of garment material on the pouch part must be used in order to prevent the lining from showing on the right side of the garment when the flap of the finished pocket is lifted.
Baste the full-sized piece over the flap, as shown at b; that is, with its right side down and so that the basting will be on top of the basting with which the flap was basted on. Baste on the piece with the garment material attached, or the lower part of the pocket, as at c, with its right side down and the piece so placed that the basting will be ½ inch from that holding the other piece.
28. Completing the Pocket.—With the pouch pieces thus basted in place, replace the basting with stitching. Having finished this stitching, remove all the basting and fasten the thread ends on the wrong side.
Then, holding the seam edges apart, cut the pocket opening, following the directions given in connection with the stand pocket; that is, cutting to within ½ inch of each end and then diagonally to the end of the flap, as well as to the end of the stitching of the lower part of the pocket.
29. After cutting the opening for the pocket, slip both pouch pieces through
the opening, turn the flap down from the right side of the garment, and baste
in the manner shown at a, Fig. 20.
Next, 
as
in Fig. 21, bring the lower portion up, allowing the material
to extend up far enough to fill the space between the stitching of the flap
and that of
the bottom, as shown at a, thus forming a welt, which aids in concealing
the lining when the flap is lifted. Then turn the seam down and baste, as
shown at b, slipping the fingers inside the pocket opening so as to prevent
the stitches from catching the material underneath. Next, stitch along the
lower edge, as at c, and bring the other pocket portion down into position,
as in Fig. 22. Now turn under the triangular pieces to the wrong side and
fasten them through both thicknesses, as shown at a; also, to strengthen
the pocket, finish the ends of the pocket opening with the overcast bar,
as shown at b.
Next, baste and stitch 
the pouch portions together, as at c, and then overcast
the edges, as shown. With all the stitching done, remove all the bastings
and press the pocket thoroughly from the right side. The flap pocket should
now appear on the right side as in Fig. 16, and on the wrong side, as in
Fig. 23.
30. Flap-Pocket Variations.—Several variations of the flap pocket are
illustrated in Fig. 24. These pockets should serve to make clear the way
in which flap pockets of different shapes may be applied, and to provide
suggestions for developing other pockets. As will be observed, the flaps
may be circular, triangular, or of novelty shape, and they may have square
or round corners; also buttons and buttonholes and other trimming may be
added to create the right effect. In every case, however, the-shape of the
flap, the stitching, and the trimming are in harmony with the garment on
which they are used, a point that should always be borne in mind in connection
with garment making.
WELT, OR SLIT, POCKET
31. The third type of pocket, namely, the welt, or slit, pocket, is illustrated in Fig. 25. This type of pocket has neither a stand nor a flap, simply a slit, or opening, secured with welt edges, and a pouch. Although the opening of the pocket shown here is in the form of a reversed curve, or "line of beauty," as it is sometimes called, openings in the form of other curves, as well as straight and diagonal lines, may be used effectively, as is pointed out later.
The welt, or slit, pocket is used as a breast pocket; at the sides of a garment, below the waist line, as a pocket for a handkerchief, car fare, or any small article; and sometimes simply to create an ornamental effect on a garment. If it is to be used as a breast pocket, as in this case, the opening should never be more than 3 1/8 or 3 5/8 inches wide, but if it is to be used in the lower part of a coat or a skirt it may be from 1 to 1½ inches wider.
No difficulty should be met in constructing the welt, or slit, pocket; for, with a good idea of how the stand and the flap pocket are made, the making of this pocket should be comparatively easy.
32. Preparing the Pattern for the Curved Opening.—The curved opening for the pocket shown in Fig. 25 may be drawn freehand or with the aid of any circular article, such as a drinking glass. But no matter what method is followed, it is necessary that you get the correct slant to the reversed curve, so that when it is transferred to the material in which the pocket is to be made it will assume a good line and appear well-balanced.
For the pocket here shown, the opening of the original of which is practically
3½ inches wide, it will perhaps be best to make a pattern in the
manner shown in Fig. 26. Therefore, on a piece of paper of suitable size,
draw first
a
rectangle whose top and bottom lines are each 3 inches and whose sides, or
ends, are each 1½ inches, and then, as shown, letter the upper right-hand
corner A and the lower left-hand corner B. Then connect A and B with a diagonal
line and mark the center of this line C.
With this done, proceed to draw the curve, extending it from B, below the diagonal line up to C, and from C above the diagonal line to A. Exercise great care to shape the curves attractively, being guided by the shaping shown in Fig. 26 and blending the curves together at point C with a free-hand line if you use some circular object for outlining the reversed curves below and above the diagonal line. With the curve outlined, cut it from A, through C, to B; then cut from A along the upper line of the rectangle, and from the upper left-hand corner to B. The pattern, which consists of the part above the curve, will then be ready for outlining the opening on the material.
33. As has been stated, the curved edge of any circular article may be used in drawing the curved line, or it may be drawn freehand. In either case, however, it is advisable to draw a rectangle first and then, so as to be sure of the proper slant for the curve, to connect two of its corners with a diagonal line, the direction, or slant, of which will depend on which side of the garment the pocket is to appear.
Of course, pockets of different size and curves of different curvature will require rectangles of different sizes, and just what the size ought to be must be determined by experiment. A good plan is first to decide on what the width and the slant of the pocket openings are to be and then, by actual measurement, determine what the length of the top, bottom, and side lines of the rectangle must be to accommodate the opening. The value of such a pattern lies in the fact that it insures accuracy, for its side or its top may be placed on a stripe or the grain of the garment material; whereas, if no such plan were followed, there would be danger of having the curved opening appear crooked on the garment and thus detract from its appearance.
34. Preparing
the Material for the Pocket.
With the pattern made ready, lay it on the garment at the place where the
pocket opening is to appear, being careful to have it straight, and then
outline the opening by drawing a chalk line along the curved edge of the
pattern.
Next, on the wrong side of the material, baste a lengthwise piece of firm, plain cotton 2½ inches deep and 5 inches wide, with the ends shaped as in Fig. 27, directly under the mark made on the right side for the pocket opening. Then, from the right side, run a basting thread along the mark and through the basted reinforcing strip, as at a, so as to outline the pocket opening on the wrong side, using very short stitches and following the curve exactly.
35. Securing the Pocket Material
to the Garment.—Next, as shown in
Fig. 28, pin to the garment material, over the marked pocket opening, a piece
of material cut about 3½ inches by 5 inches, placing it right side
down and taking care to match the stripes of the material if there are any.
If there
are no stripes in the material used, at least the weave of the materials
must be matched;
that is, the lengthwise threads of each must run in exactly the same direction.
When this piece is properly matched and pinned in position, secure it in place from the wrong side by basting ½ inch from the marked threads, as shown at b and c, Fig. 27. Then, with the sewing machine, stitch it and the reinforcing strip in place, stitching from the wrong side and within 1/8 inch of each side of the marked thread, as well as across each end, as at d. Extreme care must be exercised in doing this stitching, for to have the pocket opening correct, the lines must conform to its outline and the space between the stitching must be exactly the same for the entire length of the curve. Now remove the basting between the rows of stitching, as well as the diagonal basting just outside of the stitching.
36. Cutting the Pocket Opening.—The next step is to cut the opening for the pocket. Therefore, with a pair of sharp-pointed scissors, cut from the center to within ¼ inch of each end of the curved opening and then in a diagonal line to each corner, as at e and f, Fig. 27, and also as in Fig. 28. In cutting this opening, it is well to keep in mind the importance of exercising care when the seam allowance is so narrow, as well as the necessity of keeping the cutting line an even distance from the stitching.
37. Finishing the Pocket
Opening.—With
the pocket opening cut, slip the material through the slit in the manner
indicated
in Fig. 29, smoothing it back carefully at the ends. Then baste, as at a and b,
holding the seam back from underneath with the forefinger of the left hand
and along the top with the thumb, so that it cannot be caught in with
the welt edges. Have the welts fill the entire space between the stitching
and make them of the same
width on each side of the opening of the pocket. Before starting the basting,
it is well to test the width that the welt will have to be to accomplish
this; then begin to baste very close to the edge, as shown. At this time,
also form into plaits on the wrong side the material at the ends of the pocket.
In some materials,
these plaits may be shrunk out by pressing with a very hot iron and wet cloth.
After this basting is done, baste the welts together with diagonal basting,
as shown in Fig. 30, so as to make sure that their edges are true, and then,
placing a press cloth over the wrong side of the material, press the pocket
thoroughly.
With the pressing done, stitch the lower edge of the pocket 1/16-inch from
the edge, as at a, Fig. 31, and fasten the thread ends securely on the wrong
side.
38. Making the
Pouch 
Portion.—For
the pouch portion, cut two pieces of silk lining, each 5 inches wide and
3½ inches long, and shape them as
shown in Fig. 32. To one piece of lining, stitch
a strip of the garment material 2½ inches wide on the lengthwise
and 4½ inches on the crosswise, placing the right side of the strip
to the right side of
the pouch material, as shown at a, Fig. 33. Then stitch the other
pouch piece to the lower edge of the pocket, as shown in Fig. 32. Now place
the piece
of pouch material to which the strip of material is sewed, directly over
the pocket, having the right side next to the pocket and the edges even.
Then baste and stitch the upper edge of
the pocket opening the same width as directed for the lower edge, stitching
through all thicknesses and fastening the ends of the
stitching threads on the wrong side. Next, baste and stitch the pouch portions
together, and, if necessary, trim and overcast the edges. In stitching the
pouch portions together, take care to catch the reinforcing strip, as in
Fig. 34, so that it will be held to the pocket itself.
39. Finishing the Pocket. Next, finish each end of the opening either with an arrowhead, as shown in Fig. 25, or with the overcast bar.
Finally, remove all basting, except the center diagonal basting,
which must be left until the garment is finished, and press the pocket
thoroughly. If the material is heavy, trim away the surplus material on the
back of the pocket so that not all the edges will come at the same place,
as they are likely to form a ridge when pressed. When completed, the pocket
should appear on the right side as in Fig. 25 and on the wrong side as in Fig. 34.
40. Slit-Pocket Variations.—A
few variations of the slit pocket are illustrated in Fig. 35. As will be
observed, the slit may
be made to assume various shapes and the pocket itself be placed in different
positions; but, of course, the construction of the pocket is
always the same. Many decidedly pleasing effects can be secured by using
just the correct position and shape of slit to harmonize
with the garment on which the pocket is to be used. In placing pockets on
a garment, as well as all other trimmings, due regard should always be given
to the style of the garment itself and to current fashions.
SIMPLICITY WELT POCKETS
41. Simplicity welt pockets are shown in Fig. 36, the one at (a) being
a pocket made on the straight of the material and the one at (b) being a
curved
pocket. These pockets may be quickly
made and are similar in effect to the strictly tailored welt pocket; consequently,
this method may be applied to pockets made in woolen as well as cotton garments.
They are especially suitable for wool dresses and semitailored jackets.
42. Making the Simplicity
Welt Pocket.—To make a simplicity welt
pocket, cut two pieces of material 5/8 inch larger on all sides than the
pocket itself
is to be. Place the right side of one of these pieces to the right side of
the garment, as at a, Fig. 37, and stitch, as at b, around the sides and
ends of the marked line. Slash in the center of the stitching, as at c, and
then turn the piece to the wrong side of
the 
garment, bringing the material
up and forming welts to the right side as in the welt pocket; then fold it
in shape on the wrong side, at the ends, as at a, Fig. 38, and stitch from
the right side just outside the seam of the lower welt, this appearing on
the wrong side as at b. Next, baste the other pocket piece over the first
one, edges even, and,
from the right side, stitch just outside the seam of the upper welt to meet
the stitching in the lower welt. This stitching is shown at c on the wrong
side. Remove the bastings, turn the edges toward each other, as at d, baste,
and stitch around them, as at e. Tie all thread ends and press the pocket
neatly.
43. Choosing Material for the Pouch Portion.—The simplicity welt pocket here shown is of striped material. If the stripe of the material used for such a pocket is very prominent, then the pocket portion, or pouch piece that forms the welt, should be made of material that is white or of a plain color that harmonizes with the color of the garment, for, as will be observed, the stripes will run irregularly and will not appear so attractive as would plain material in the pocket opening. The other pouch piece should be made of the striped material.
PATCH POCKETS
NATURE OF PATCH POCKETS
44. A patch pocket is merely a piece of properly shaped material stitched to the outside of a garment in a manner not unlike that of a plain-apron pocket. To take away the severe plainness of a pocket in the form of a simple patch, it is common to resort to trimming and plaits; nevertheless, a pocket applied in the manner stated, whether trimmed, plaited, or plain, does not lose its identity. In making patch pockets, the chief essential is neatness. Especially is it necessary to turn the corners evenly and to use care in placing the pocket in position in order not to have it appear drawn or too full over the material. After having made the pockets thus far discussed, little difficulty will be experienced in making the patch pocket, as it is the most simple.
PLAIN PATCH POCKET
45. The first pocket to be considered is the plain patch pocket, which, owing to its simplicity, is not illustrated. To make such a pocket, first cut out the material, shaping it to suit the style of the garment. As a finish, place a 1¼ or 1¾-inch hem across the top; then turn the outer edges to the wrong side, baste it to the garment, and stitch it in place. With the stitching done and the thread ends secured neatly on the wrong side, remove the bastings and thoroughly press the pocket from the wrong side.
PATCH POCKET WITH STRAP AND FLAP
46. In Fig. 39 is shown a patch pocket with trimming in the form of a strap
and a flap. This style of patch pocket is neat, attractive, and suitable
for many styles of tailored coats and skirts, especially unlined coats, sport
coats, and little boys' coats to which it is desired to give a mannish effect.
It is cut a trifle narrower at the top than at the bottom, so that it will
balance well with the garment and impart a trim appearance. This difference
between the width at the top and the bottom of the pocket, however, must
be so slight as to be scarcely noticeable—just enough to give a neater
line than if the top and the bottom were the same in width.
A piece of material 4½ to 5½ inches square is required for this pocket, the size for a garment, of course, depending on the kind, style, and position of the pocket itself. To insure accuracy, however, it is advisable to prepare a paper pattern that is exactly the shape and size of the pocket desired.
47. Cutting the Pocket.To prepare the pattern, use in this case a piece of paper that is 4½ to 5½ inches square or a little larger than the desired pocket. Trim off the sides a little at the top, so as to make it narrower there than at the bottom; then round off the corners at the lower edge with graceful curves, as the pocket in Fig. 39 shows. In some instances the corners of such pockets are left square, but they are a little more difficult to keep true than are the round corners; also, it is harder to get one side of the pocket with square corners to correspond with the other, especially when stitching is added.
When the pattern is made and in position on the material, the pocket may be cut out and mark-stitched and basted on the pattern lines so as to keep the edges even.
48. Cutting the Strap.
When the pocket material is cut out, cut the strap for the center trimming,
shaping it as shown in Fig. 40, this illustration, in addition to giving
the details of the work, showing the pocket with strap and flap attached,
secured to the garment material with the final stitching. Make the lower,
or wider, end of the flap about one-half as wide as the bottom of the pocket
and its top about one-third as wide as the top of the pocket; also, make
it a generous inch longer than the pocket itself. After the strap material
is cut out, line it with light-weight silk of a harmonizing color; or if
the garment on which the pocket is to appear is trimmed in another color
or with plaid, line the strap with it.
49. Making the Strap.—To make the strap, place the right sides of the material and the lining together and stitch along each side, using a ¼-inch seam and stitching outside the pattern line of the strap, so that when it is turned it will not appear narrower than the width originally intended. Stitch the sides only, leaving the ends open so that the strap can be turned right side out. When the stitched strap is turned, press it carefully from the wrong side. In lining the strap, make sure that the lining is a trifle narrower than the strap material; that is, do not allow the edge of the lining to extend beyond the material. When the strap is finished and the stitching is added to the right side, it should appear as at a, Fig. 40.
50. Making the Overlap.—With the strap thus prepared, proceed to make the overlap, as at b, Fig. 40. Cut the material for the overlap one-half as long as the pocket and the same in width. Line it with the same material as the strap is lined, and finish it in much the same manner as the flap of a flap pocket is finished. Stitch carefully all around the edges, making a narrow seam; then turn the flap right side out and stitch it, as at c. One or two rows of stitching may be used, depending on the stitching of the garment with which it is used.
51. Putting the Pocket Pieces Together.—With this done place the right side of the flap to the wrong side of the pocket, and stitch a good ¾ inch from the edge, as at d. Then turn the seam of the flap down on the pocket and stitch, as at e. Next, overcast the edge, as at f, and be very careful that the ends g and h do not extend beyond the pocket portion.
Now pin the strap to the lower side of the pocket, so that it can be stitched in position in the manner shown in Fig. 40.
52. Applying the Pocket.—Baste the pocket in position on the garment and stitch all around its outer edges, using stitching that comes close to the edge or corresponds with the stitching on the garment. If the stitching comes very close to the edge, be extremely careful not to let it run off the edge. Particular pains must be taken when stitching very close to the edge of a thick surface, because the presser foot of the sewing machine in such cases has a tendency to drop off, especially in turning corners.
If the stitching is added directly on the edge, turn the pocket wrong side out and trim away the material of the seam up close to the stitching, being careful, of course, to hold the seam away in trimming, so as not to clip the material. When the pocket is stitched in position, remove the bastings and press it carefully.
53. Finishing the Pocket.—Lift up the strap and secure it underneath the flap, as shown in Fig. 39. This may be done with slip-stitches, so that the thread will not show on either the right or the Wrong side of the pocket. If a button is used, as in Fig. 39, rather than take stitches from the underneath side, slip the fingers underneath the strap and the flap and sew the button on, bringing the thread through the strap and the flap and thus holding these two parts together with the button.
In finishing off patch pockets, turn the garment so that it is wrong side up and take a few catch-stitches across the ends of the pocket. These stitches will keep it from pulling loose or tearing at the upper edge, as they serve to strengthen both the pocket edge and the garment. If such a pocket is to be used a great deal, as, for instance, in children's school or play coats, it is advisable to put a stay strip at the back of the pocket, because such a strip prevents the pocket from tearing out. This strip should be of the same material as that used for binding the seams of the garment. It should be cut lengthwise and carefully slip-stitched to the material from the wrong side, so that the stitches will not be visible from the right side.
BOX-PLAITED PATCH POCKET
54. The box-plaited
patch pocket, which is shown in Fig. 41, is similar to the patch pocket just
described. The material for it is cut in much the
same
manner, except that 2½ inches is allowed in the center for the plait.
55. Making the Plait and Pocket.—The plait is brought together and
basted, and then the edges are opened out smooth and basted carefully, as
shown in Fig. 42. If the material is very firm, it is not necessary to stitch
the plait before pressing it flat. It is
customary to leave the plait open, so as to give more freedom in the pocket.
However, if the material is wiry or not firm in weave, the best plan is to
stitch the plait and then press it so that it will be true and even and will
hold its shape well.
Then turn the outer edge of the pocket and baste, as at a, Fig. 43, and
bind the upper edge of the pocket with a bias strip of lining, as at b.
56. Making the Strap.—The strap, which finishes
the top of the pocket, is cut crosswise of the material. It should be from
1¼ to 1¾ inches wide
and extend just beyond the edges, as shown at a, Fig. 44. Line the
strap with silk of a color to match the pocket, and stitch the strap in the
manner
shown in the illustration or in a way that harmonizes with the other stitchings.
57. Completing the Pocket.—With the strap made, sew the upper edge of the pocket to the strap, as at b. Next, pin the pocket in position on the garment. Lift the strap, as at c, and stitch the pocket all the way around on its outer edge, stitching to the box plait on each side, but as a rule not across it. In this case, the plait is left so that it may be securely slip-stitched from the wrong side. Then stay the ends of the pocket from the wrong side, using either a stay strip or slip-stitches. Press the strap and the pocket so that they will lie flat on the garment.
If desired, a button may be added to each end of the strap so as to make the pocket more attractive; or if corded loops are used in trimming the garment, a little cord may be made to extend down from the button and be secured in place with a button.
PATCH-POCKET VARIATIONS
58. In Fig. 45 are illustrated several additional styles of patch pockets.
Such pockets, as will be noticed, may be made in different shapes, as well
as with different styles of straps, flaps, and other trimmings. However,
as is true of the other pockets, patch pockets must always harmonize with
the garment on which they are used, as a close study of the illustration
will indicate.
BOUND POCKETS
59. In Fig. 46 is shown the type of pocket known as the bound pocket. This
kind of tailored pocket, which is not unlike a regular slit, or welt, pocket,
derives its name from the fact that the edges of the opening are bound, usually
with braid. When garments trimmed with braid are in vogue, this style of
tailored pocket is in
great demand, but, of course, it would rarely, if ever, be used on garments
that are not so trimmed.
For binding the pocket edges, braid that is ¾ inch wide is usually satisfactory, although for broadcloth suits or suits of fine, firm material, narrower braid of fine weave is sometimes employed. Military braid is possibly the most desirable of all braids for tailored work, because it is wieldy; that is, it may be stretched or shrunk to fit shaped edges and curves and yet is firm enough to give a satisfactory finish.
60. Making the Pocket Opening.—In
making a bound pocket, it is necessary first, as in making other pockets,
to determine its position and the width
that the pocket opening is to be. With these points known, indicate the width
of the pocket opening on the material, as shown by the chalk marks a and
b, Fig. 47, and then at right angles to these lines draw lines c and d,
placing them so that the distance between them is 1/8 inch less than the
width of the
braid, or equal to the width that the bound portions are to be, usually ½
to ¾ inch, as the braid on each bound edge shows from ¼ to
3/8 inch. With these points marked, stay the wrong side of the pocket with
a stay strip, as for the welt pocket.
Next, cut two pieces of braid, each 2 inches longer than the pocket, and apply them to the pocket with small running-stitches, as shown at e and f, taking care to keep the outside edges of the braid exactly on the chalk line. When the braid is thus secured to the material, form the pocket opening by slashing the material exactly in the center of the space between the strips of braid and clipping to the corners in diagonal lines, as in the welt pocket, and as shown at g. In clipping these diagonal lines, be extremely careful not to clip the braid. With the opening cut, slip the braid of the upper edge through the opening to the wrong side and baste it, as at h.
61. Making and Applying
the Pouch Pieces.—Cut two pieces of lining
for the pouch portion of the pocket, making these pieces
as wide as the braid is long and as deep as the pocket is to be and shaping
them at the top to conform to the outline of the pocket opening. In this
case, as the opening is straight, no difficulty will be encountered, but
when it is crescent-shaped or shaped as in Fig. 25, as is sometimes the case,
much care has to be taken in shaping the upper edge of the pouch portion
to make it exact. With the
upper edge and the sides of these pieces shaped, shape the lower edge as
in Fig. 48.
Next, turn the garment wrong side up and place one of these pouch portions so that its upper edge is even with the slashed edge, as at a, and baste it in position. Then bring the free edge of the braid of the lower portion over to the wrong side and secure it in position with basting. Next, turn the garment right side up and baste the two folded edges of the braid, or welts, together, as in making the welt pocket, exercising care to keep the fold even and in line with the weave of the braid.
Now turn under the triangular piece at each end of the opening and fasten it neatly and securely on the wrong side. Next, stitch along the lower edge of the braid, as at a, Fig. 46, so that the stitching on the wrong side will appear as at b, Fig. 48. This stitching serves to hold the pocket pouch in place. If the braid is very wide and extends far below the stitching line b, whip the edge down so as to hold it well in place.
Next, stitch a piece of the garment material to the upper edge of the remaining pouch portion, as in making the welt pocket. Then place the side that has the material attached directly over the opening, baste the upper edge to the braid, and then from the right side stitch the upper edge in the same way as the lower edge was stitched.
62. Completing the Pocket.—Turn the wrong side up and stitch the sides and the lower end of the pouch portions together, and pull all threads through to the wrong side and fasten them in place. Finally, stay the ends of the pocket on the wrong side. The ends on the right side may be left plain, as the illustration shows, or finished with arrowheads.
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
- What is the purpose of the eyelet in a tailored buttonhole?
- Why is an interlining necessary in garments in which tailored buttonholes are worked?
- What are the most important considerations in the making of tailored pockets?
- (a) Why is a reinforcing strip used under the opening of a
pocket?
(b) Of what material should it be made? - In planning flap pockets for a garment, what points should be in harmony with the garment on which such pockets are used?
- Under what circumstances is it desirable to have the pouch portion that forms the welt in the simplicity welt pocket made of plain material?
- Submit a sampler of a tailored buttonhole.
- Submit a sampler of the material-bound buttonhole.
- Submit a sampler of the stand pocket.
- Submit a sampler of a simplicity welt pocket.
