1930—Millinery Processes
by Carlotta M. Brown

MATERIALS FOR COVERING HATS

Many different types of material are used for the covering of hats. A few of these materials are of such weight and texture that they are carried over from one season to the following. Satins, silks, and crepes can be used throughout the year, and felts may or may not prevail, according to the fashion.

Materials for Fall and Winter Hats

For hats in fall and winter the following materials are used:

• Heavy satin
• Heavy silk
• Crêpe
• Velvet
• Hatters' plush
• Velveteen
• Duvetyn
• Felt
• Brocade
• Metal cloth
• Metal lace
• Velour

Materials for Spring and Summer Hats

For spring and summer hats the following materials are most often used:

• Satin
• Silk
• Crêpe
• Georgette
• Lace
• Felt
• Horsehair braid
• Fiber braid
• Straw braid
• Ribbon
• Tulle
• Linen

Velvet

Velvet is always in favor for fall and winter hats because of its deep silky pile and soft luster. Two distinct types are used for millinery purposes: that with the upright pile and that with the smooth, or flat, pile. The velvets generally used for dress material and tailoring are much wider and more expensive and do not lend themselves as readily to millinery purposes, although they may be used. All velvets in which the nap, or pile, stands upright are known as upright-pile velvets; those which have been ironed or pressed flat by any process are flat-pile velvets. Millinery velvet is usually narrow, the width ranging from 17 ½ to 19 inches. It may be woven on a silk, linen, or cotton back with the pile made of genuine silk or of artificial silk. In choosing velvet a piece with a soft, close nap and a firm but pliable back should be selected.

Velveteen

Velveteen is an all-cotton fabric. It is often confused with velvet by the inexperienced buyer. It lacks all the fine luster of silk velvet, has a stiff, harsh back, and collects dust readily. A hat made from velveteen does not have the graceful lines that mark one made from velvet.

Straw Braid

Straw braid may be purchased by the yard or by the bolt, the number of yards in a bolt usually ranging from 3 to 12. This braid comes in a great variety of widths and weaves, and may be used for the construction of the entire hat or in combination with silk, satin, georgette, crepe, felt, or ribbon. When selecting braid, attention should be given to its pliability, for it is extremely difficult to make stiff, harsh braid or braid woven over many coarse cotton cords conform to the curves of the brim and the crown.

Horsehair Braid

The finest grade of horsehair braid is made from real horsehair, but much of the braid known by that name is made of fiber or artificial-silk threads. It may be purchased by the bolt or by the yard, as the straw braids are purchased, the usual width being from 1 to 2 inches, and the number of yards in a bolt from 3 to 10.

Horsehair braid is used principally for transparent hats, although it may be attached to a solid fabric foundation, as the heavier straw braids are used.