1930—Millinery Processes
by Carlotta M. Brown

LININGS

The lining of a hat should be as neat and attractive as the outer covering, because in handling the hat the lining is often displayed. Linings may be made of silk or of the less expensive mercerized materials. Plain colors are always in good taste; plaids and changeable silks also are often suitable and attractive. There are three types of linings made: the cap, the strip, and the sectional. The first two are the most common, but with the soft sectional crown the sectional lining should always be used.

Cap Lining

The cap lining follows closely the lines of the crown and thus gives a tailored effect. Cut an oval of crinoline or tarlatan 6½ inches in length and 5 inches in width (see page 108). Place the oval on the fabric to be used for the lining, baste, and cut the same size as the crinoline oval. Measure the exact head size and cut a bias strip of the lining fabric 6 inches in width and the length of the head size plus two seam allowances. From this point follow the directions given for the making of the bias side crown with oval top (Fig. 25). If for any reason the lining is found to be too large, take in the extra fullness around the head size by making one or two small plaits at the back. A covered cord may be inserted in the seam when joining the side crown to the oval. To attach to the hat, turn the lining with the right side to the outside, slip it down into the crown of the hat as far as possible, turn the edge, and pin it entirely around the head size. Starting at the back, slip-stitch it into place with long stitches. For picture of a cap lining see the hat illustrated in Fig. 49.

Strip Lining

Cut from the lining material a straight strip 6 inches wide and the length of the head-size measurement plus 1 inch for seaming. On one edge turn a casing wide enough for a narrow ribbon to be inserted, and stitch this casing by machine. Cut the ribbon the length of the strip and run it through the casing. Start at the back of the crown with the right side of the lining and the cut edge next to the head size; fold over the seam allowance at the end of the strip and slip the cut edge down into the crown the width of a seam. Sew the lining into place at the head size with a lock stitch. Cut an oval of the lining material large enough to cover the top of the crown, and paste or tack it into place. Draw up the ribbon just enough to conform to the curve of the crown. Sew a flat seam at the back and tie the ribbon into a small bow.

Sectional Lining

When making the lining for a soft sectional crown, copy the crown pattern in the lining material. This is to avoid any bulk at the top of the crown which the other types of lining might create. After the sections are joined and sewed, slip the lining into the crown, right side out, attaching it at the head size with long slip stitches, as for a cap lining.

When using commercial linings in very soft crowns, it may be necessary to cut away the stiffening under the oval, as this severe line often makes a ridge at the joining and spoils the softness in the top of the crown.