1928—The New-Way Course in Millinery and Hat Design

Lesson 22—Renovating

You may select a topic from this lesson Economy Hints for the Milliner Renovating Hat Materials and Trimmings To Clean Ostrich Feathers, Plumes and Fancies Renovating Velvets To Make Old Laces Like New Renovating Ribbons Renovating Buckram Frames To Renew Felt and Beaver Hats Old Straws Cleaning Silks and Satins Panama Hats Refreshing Flowers Some Helpful Hints Tinting What You Will Need for Tinting Dry Tinting Laces Liquid Tinting To Whiten Feathers Questions

Economy Hints for the Milliner

A good poet is born, but a good milliner is made. It is by mastering all the important details of millinery—including such important things as renovating hat materials, dry cleaning, tinting, etc.—that one becomes an expert in the art of hat-creating.

This lesson will be devoted to the study of renovating, cleaning, tinting and refreshing hat materials. If you are able to whiten a feather that has lost its freshness, you will be able to save the price of a new feather; if you are able to take apart an old hat and renovate the materials so that they can be used in the making of a new hat, you have saved the price of new materials. Therefore you see that economy in millinery is quite important and should not be neglected by the student.

The first thing we will consider, in the matter of millinery economy, is the renovating of hat materials and trimmings. Let the following pages serve as a sort of milliner's guide to you; keep this book always handy, so that you can refer to it whenever a question of renovating or tinting arises.

Renovating Hat Materials and Trimmings

Naphtha is probably the greatest aid for cleaning purposes, especially in the case of light-colored materials and trimmings. Ostrich plumes, for instance, and fancies that have become soiled may be cleaned very nicely if one uses naphtha. Low grades of gasoline are unfit for cleansing purposes.

Always use a large, deep china bowl for the naphtha. It should be large enough to hold the article to be cleaned without crowding. And be very, very careful that you do not use naphtha in a room where there is fire or artificial light. It is best to do the cleaning out of doors.

As naphtha roughens and coarsens the skin, do not keep the hands in the fluid longer than is absolutely necessary. Do not use naphtha carelessly, as you are likely to have an accident.

To Clean Ostrich Feathers, Plumes and Fancies

The following process for cleaning ostrich plumes and fancies applies only to those that are not held together by glue. Use a dry bowl or china dish. Pour a pint of naphtha into it and place the feather in with the right side up. Gently wash each flue by drawing between the fingers, beginning at the stem and working to the point of the feather.

When you have treated the entire feather in this manner, draw the feather in its full length through the closed hand. Then pour out the dirty naphtha—or put it into a small bottle so that it may settle and be used again for cleaning some dark material. It cannot be used again on light material. Clean the bowl and pour into it a pint of clean naphtha.

Now add two tablespoonfuls of white flour to the naphtha. Mix thoroughly until flour and naphtha have the consistency of a thin paste. Once again, wash the feather or fancy by rubbing each flue between the fingers from stem to point. Never rub in the other direction. Remove the feather and dry by beating lightly on the back of the hand or by shaking in the air. Be sure that it is entirely dry, then take the next step.

Place a piece of fresh tissue paper on the table and sprinkle evenly with clean cornstarch. (Use white tissue paper.) Roll the feather in the cornstarch until it is thoroughly covered. Then shake it gently in the air until all traces of the cornstarch are removed—and you will find that your feather or plume is like new again.

Dark feathers are differently treated. They are washed in clear wood alcohol, just as light feathers are washed in naphtha, and are rinsed in the alcohol. Flour and cornstarch should never be used on dark feathers.

Ornaments made of feathers where glue has been used to' hold them together cannot be cleaned satisfactorily, as any cleaning fluid will dissolve the glue and so ruin the ornament. Feathers that are only slightly soiled may be freshened by sprinkling with powdered magnesia and laying aside for several hours. A thorough shaking will remove the magnesia and leave the feather fresh and clean. The process may have to be repeated.

Sometimes wings and fancies made of small feathers become roughened by the wind or from careless handling. To prevent this the feathers should be glued in place and the whole wing or fancy covered with maline of the same color. All trimmings made of feathers wear much better if so covered.

In handling wood alcohol be very careful, as it is not only inflammable but very dangerous. When taken internally it is deadly; when used freely on the skin it is dangerous. Both alcohol and naphtha should be used outdoors, or at an open window in a room where there is no fire or artificial light. If used in a closed room a headache may result.

Renovating Velvets

If you wish to use the velvet from an old hat in a new one, you may clean and renovate the material very nicely at home. Velvet materials can be stretched and pinned in place, then sponged with chloroform. This process removes any soiled spots and restores the color.

When treating velvet in this way, use a small sponge and be sure that the bottle containing the chloroform is kept tightly corked. This fluid evaporates very quickly, and also has the power of overcoming you if too much of it is inhaled. Therefore it is best to work at an open window.

Velvet bows may be freshened and made to look like new again without even removing them from the hat. Use a curling iron. Make it quite hot and then cover loosely with a wet cloth. Insert in the loops of the bow, opening the curler as wide as the loops demand. The steam will cause the nap of the velvet to rise. When dry, the dust can be removed easily with a velvet brush, and the bow will appear as good as when new.

A hat of velvet that appears crushed may be held over the steam and the fingers used for re-shaping the folds. This process will freshen the hat, and when dry the improvement will be immediately apparent.

You will probably be surprised to learn that velveteen may be washed without injury to its finish. Simply make a lather of pure white soap and hot water, rinse the material in it a number of times; repeat the same process in two other hot lathers, freshly made, and rinse finally in clear, warm water. Add a teaspoonful of salt to a quart of water when washing and rinsing the velveteen— it helps retain the glossy surface. Do not wring out, but hang on a line until half dry. Then iron on the wrong side, on a bath towel; or, better still, a piece of velveteen with the nap up. The steam will cause the pile to rise—and your velveteen will be like new again.

To Make Old Laces Like New

Laces soil very easily, but there is no reason why they cannot be made to look like new again if one wishes to use them on new hats. In fact, laces are very easily renovated and with a little care can be made to appear very attractive.

There are several ways of cleaning lace. The method used depends upon the quality and strength of the lace. You see, it is very important that the delicate threads of the design are not broken; therefore each method is designed to meet the requirements of the particular types of lace for which it is used.

Lace should always be soaked before washing. If it is very much soiled, use boiling water in which a teaspoonful of borax has been dissolved. The usual proportion is two cupfuls of water to every teaspoonful of borax. Having soaked the lace, proceed to make a lather of white soap and water. Squeeze the lace in this soap-and-water mixture as though it were a sponge, but do not rub.

The best way to wash lace is to put the soap and water into a fruit jar, partially filling it, and then placing the lace into it. Seal and shake well until the lace is thoroughly cleaned. Then drain the water and add clean, tepid water and proceed to shake again. Repeat as many times as necessary. Then remove the lace and pin it on a blanket, right side down, placed on a table or ironing board. Stretch the lace into position and pin each point or scallop in place. Be careful not to break any of the threads. Allow to dry on the blanket and press with a warm iron before removing.

If the lace is cream or ecru, or if it is white and not very much soiled, lay out evenly on clean white paper and cover with magnesia. Put another sheet of clean white paper on top. Place away inside the leaves of a book, or just place away, for two or three days, and then shake out the magnesia. The lace will be clean and fresh. If you are not going to use this lace immediately, place it in blue paper. Blue paper has a preservative influence over whiteness and your lace will not become yellow.

You may some day have occasion to press black lace. This is the way to do it. First sponge with clear water on the right side until quite wet, then lay right side down on a black pad. Cover with black cloth and press with a hot iron. If done in this manner the lace will have a new, fresh, attractive appearance.

Renovating Ribbons

Ribbons of good quality may be washed—if carefully done. But the results are not quite as satisfactory as dry-cleaning, or when certain cleaning fluids are used. To wash, melt white soap and add enough warm water to make suds of desired strength. Lift the ribbon up and down in the suds and draw through the hand until the soiled spots vanish. You may have to use a small brush —but never rub the spots. To rinse, lift up and down in the water—do not wring, as this will leave creases in the ribbon. Put a small amount of powdered borax in the last rinsing.

Naphtha may be used for cleaning ribbons. Place the ribbon in a fruit jar and cover with naphtha or any other cleansing fluid desired. Allow to stand for ten minutes, then shake thoroughly. Lift the ribbon out and put into another jar, drawing it through the closed hand to remove the fluid first. Cover with clean fluid and shake again. Then remove and draw through closed hand once again, air thoroughly for several hours, press on the wrong side—and you have renewed ribbon.

Black ribbons may be successfully renovated by sponging with one-third alcohol and two-thirds water. When partly dry, the ribbon should be ironed under black crinoline. Have the iron just moderately warm. Remember, alcohol is inflammable—do not have it near fire or intense heat of any kind.

Colored ribbons may be dipped into a bowl of naphtha to clean them without harm to the color. Remember that naphtha is inflammable and very explosive when exposed to fire.

Renovating Buckram Frames

Buckram frames that have become broken can be restored to their original shape very easily. Simply press into shape with warm iron and coat the broken places with white shellac.

As the frame is the foundation of the hat, never use an old, repaired frame when a new one can be obtained. However, if you are partial to a certain frame, and you wish to use it for another hat, you may change the shape exactly as you would change a flat piece of buckram—by increasing or decreasing the diameter at any desired point.

To straighten out the brim, pressing should be resorted to— and there is nothing like a coat of shellac to add strength to those parts that are weakened through bending or careless handling.

To Renew Felt and Beaver Hats

When a light felt hat becomes soiled, or when it loses its freshness, clean with naphtha and cornmeal. Rub well until the hat looks fresh and clean again.

After cleaning with naphtha and cornmeal, it is wise to go over the hat with sandpaper. Use OO sandpaper which has been tacked to a piece of wood for convenience and go over the whole hat carefully until the nap is lifted. Always rub in the same direction, beginning at the center top of the crown and working out to the edge of the brim.

Having completed the sandpaper process, cover another small block of wood with velvet, the pile outward. Rub over a hot iron, and when the velvet-covered block is warm rub at once over paraffin or beeswax. By brushing the hat with this, you will restore the original sheen.

If a white felt hat becomes greased in any way, you can remove the spots with benzine. All ordinary dirt can be removed with soap, water and brush—although one may use the process mentioned above. If you wish to clean the hat thoroughly, be sure to remove the lining, band, etc.

Old Straws

Very often old straws are remade into new hats. You will find that straws can be made to look like new again with very little effort. Straw that is to be resewed should be very carefully ripped and pressed. A great many straws cannot be dampened; always try a small piece first. Then, if you find it can stand dampening, proceed with the entire amount.

Light straw can sometimes be cleaned with soap and water, or with naphtha. You must experiment first with a small piece to find out which method is best. If a light-colored straw hat is only slightly soiled, it can be cleaned and refreshed by sprinkling with French chalk or magnesia. Place away for a few days, then brush carefully to remove the powder or magnesia. Repeat, if necessary, until the hat is fresh and clean.

Black straw hats can be renewed by brushing over with a polish made from pulverized black sealing wax and alcohol. Use one ounce of the former to half a pint of the latter. Allow this mixture to stand in a warm place until it is about the consistency of cream. Then it can be used on the black straw and it will make it look like new again. Shake the bottle containing the polish frequently while the contents are dissolving.

There are many standard preparations for retinting and re-coloring faded straws. If you use any of these preparations, bear in mind that they must be darker in shade than the original color of the straw.

Black chip requires only a wiping with an old soft silk handkerchief, followed by a light application of pure olive oil, to restore its newness and its lustre.

Cleaning Silks and Satins

Some silks can be freshened by washing in warm soap-suds. Japanese, China, India and pongee silks can be treated in this way. After washing, rinse quickly and dry in the shade. When almost dry, roll in a sheet and iron on the wrong side when dry.

Colored silks cannot be washed in this way, as they fade, and white silks become yellow. But these two silks can also be washed and the discoloring avoided by using medium warm water, rinsing well, wrapping in a large cloth or sheet for a half hour and then ironing on the wrong side. Have the iron moderately hot and use a piece of thin lawn between the iron and silk. If you wrap carefully in a cloth or sheet while wet, the silk will not discolor, as it is the light and air that yellows and fades the fabric.

To renew old crepe, there is nothing as effective as steam. If you have a regular steamer of the improved type, do so; otherwise proceed in this manner: Place an iron upturned between two bricks and cover with a damp cloth. The iron should be warm enough to cause the cloth to steam. Place the crepe or veiling on top of the cloth and move back and forth and from side to side quickly. While so doing, brush gently with a soft brush. It is sufficient simply to raise and drop the brush in quick succession, in a sort of patting motion. You will find that this treatment will renew and refreshen the oldest crepe. However, crepe grows shabby very quickly and requires a great deal of care. If it is badly soiled, it can be successfully cleaned by brushing first and then dipping in naphtha.

When black silk begins to shine, it may be sponged on the right side with a mixture of two parts of alcohol and one of water. Iron while damp on the wrong side, and the silk will be like new again. Black satin should be similarly sponged with alcohol to restore and cleanse it. Taffeta can be washed in warm suds, but should seldom be cleaned with naphtha, as this causes it to crack.

You will probably find that, even after cleaning and refreshing, silks and velvets are seldom suitable for use in making plain hats. But they may be used very nicely for such purposes as shirred or draped crowns and brims.

If a greasy substance has been dropped on silk, the spot can be removed by mixing French chalk with methylated spirits until it is of the consistency of cream, laying it upon the stain, covering with a brown paper and pressing with a warm iron. French chalk will be found to remove grease from colored silks without injury. Simply scrape a little of the chalk on the spot rub it in gently, allow it to stand unmolested for twenty-four hours and then brush off. As grease is often hard to remove, it may be necessary to repeat this process once again.

Panama Hats

Unless one has had a great deal of experience and is quite deft, one cannot hope to clean Panama hats successfully at home. It is always best to send the Panama hat to a professional, as they know just how to handle the cleaning and blocking. A good Panama hat will stand many trips to the cleaners, and will come back each time fresh and attractive. It is made in one piece and must be so handled that the shape and style is retained.

Refreshing Flowers

By using a soft brush and water colors mixed with naphtha, old flowers can be retouched at home. The work must be done carefully. A great deal of retouching can be done if the flowers are so used that they may be covered with maline.

Naphtha is used frequently and with much success in cleaning flowers. Fill a bowl with naphtha and dip the flower into it, keeping the flower upside down. If the first application does not clean the soiled spots, repeat until the flower is fresh and clean. Then place it aside to air for a few days, so that there will be no odor of naphtha. When you are quite sure that the naphtha has evaporated sufficiently, hold the flower in the steam of a teakettle and reshape the petals with the fingers. You may find it necessary to retouch faded or streaked parts with water colors, mixed with naphtha.

To touch up the petals of a flower, use a small camel's hair brush. Be sure to have a correct proportion of naphtha to the water color—and keep away from fire or flame.

Almost all flowers can be made to look fresh and new by shaking gently over a steaming cloth. Flowers of silk, muslin, sateen or velvet can be treated in this way.

Some Helpful Hints

Old velvet that has become faded can be stretched on the ironing board before an open window and sponged with chloroform. This not only removes the soiled spots, but helps to restore the color. Velvet can always be steamed to lift the pile; lay on a damp cloth over an upturned iron and, while the steam is rising, pass the wrong side of the velvet over it, allowing the steam to pass through the velvet and thus lift the pile.

Chiffon, maline, net, veilings and other thin materials can be refreshed by steaming and pressing. These materials do not require as much steam as does velvet.

Laces, chiffon, net and other similar materials can be cleaned in naphtha and then dipped in paint mixed with naphtha. In this manner many attractive shades and shaded effects can be obtained. Always bear in mind that when the material is damp the color will be much more vivid than when dry. Make allowances for this. Do not use any water in these paints, as only one drop will spoil all your work.

An old velvet hat which has been worn until it has become shabby can be refreshed by holding in the steam of a teakettle until the nap is lifted. But be careful that the buckram frame does not soften. If the hat is soiled, it can be cleaned by dipping a new paint brush in naphtha and brushing the hat thoroughly with it.

Ammonia is an excellent color restorer. If they are not too faded, colored hats can be greatly freshened by covering with a cloth which has been wrung out of half a pint of hot water to which a teaspoonful of ammonia has been added. After this treatment place a warm iron over the cloth and press the brim into shape.

Ruchings can be cleaned without taking out the little crinkles by dipping in naphtha. This makes them look clean and fresh, but does not detract from the dainty fluffiness.

Tinting

Velvet, chiffon, maline, net, georgette crepe and laces can be dyed successfully at home. Tinting is not a difficult process, but requires great care. Following are the colors that can be produced by mixing with naphtha. The shade obtained depends entirely upon the amount of paint used:

• Alizarin Carmine and naphtha equals Bright Red
• Black and Venetian and naphtha equals Chocolate Brown
• Burnt Umber and naphtha equals Brown
• Black and naphtha equals Gray
• Black and Light Green and naphtha equals Dark Green
• Chrome Green and naphtha equals Nile Green
• Chinese Blue and naphtha equals Chinese Cloth Color
• Deep Chrome and naphtha equals Bright Yellow
• Geranium Lake and naphtha equals Pink
• Indigo and Lamp Black and naphtha equals Lead Color
• Lake and White and naphtha equals Rose
• Mauve and naphtha equals Violet
• Naples Yellow and naphtha equals Cream Color
• Prussian Blue and naphtha equals Light Blue
• Red and Yellow and naphtha equals Orange
• Purple Lake and naphtha equals Lavender
• Raw Sienna and naphtha equals Yellow Brown
• Venetian Red and naphtha equals Brick Red
• White and Brown and naphtha equals Chestnut
• White and Green and naphtha equals Bright Green
• White, Blue and Lake and naphtha equals Purple
• White and Yellow and naphtha equals Straw Color
• White, Blue and Black and naphtha equals Pearl Gray

What You Will Need for Tinting

In addition to the tube paints mentioned, there are several articles you will need in your tinting. You should have a tin pan, a large china washbowl, a small bristle brush and about a gallon of naphtha.

In tinting, always bear in mind that the least drop of water or moisture in the bowl will ruin the work and produce bad results. Tinting should never be done near a fire or gas light—but as near as possible to an open window and outdoors if possible.

Before beginning the actual business of tinting, suppose we give you some general instructions. Read them carefully—they will prove valuable. In the first place, always keep the tops of your tubes screwed tightly in order to prevent the paint from hardening or becoming dirty. Use a clean, dry cloth to wipe the bowl and brush before commencing to tint. Be sure that the paint is completely dissolved—otherwise you are liable to spot the material. Sufficient naphtha should be used in the bowl to cover completely the material to be tinted.

Dry Tinting Laces

To tint lace a handsome cream color, mix yellow ochre with corn meal. The proportions depend on the shade desired. Place the mixture in a box and drop the lace in on top of it. Shake well until the lace is covered entirely with the ochre and meal. Then remove the lace and shake thoroughly. If the lace is too light in shade, add more ochre; if too dark, add more meal. It is best to test the mixture beforehand with a small piece of lace. This mixture can be used over and over again for tinting lace. If you wish, you may substitute corn starch for the corn meal.

Many paints come in powdered form and can be had in various shades and colors. Any of these colors can be mixed with corn meal or corn starch just as the ochre was used. Great care must be taken that the meal and paint are thoroughly mixed before the lace is added.

These powdered paints are ideal for tinting beaver hats. After the powder has been applied and the beaver is the correct shade, it should be combed with a fine steel comb. This dry-tinting process is not successful on smooth surfaces, while on the other hand, liquid tinting causes felt and beaver to spot so that it can never be used on hats of these materials. Dry-tinting is often used successfully on velvets.

Liquid Tinting

To use your paints and alcohol for liquid tinting, open the tube and squeeze a small amount of the tube paint in the bottom of a bowl or pan. Now pour out a small quantity of naphtha and use the brush for mixing and dissolving the paint. Be sure that the paint is thoroughly dissolved before proceeding.

Into this paint and alcohol solution you have just made, dip a small sample of the material to be tinted. This will show you exactly the shade that will be produced by the paint. If you find that it is darker than you desired, add more naphtha; if too light, add more paint.

There are three paints that are very strong and will require very little in order to obtain a delicate shade. They are Prussian blue, burnt umber and black.

To Whiten Feathers

It often happens that feathers, from handling or exposure, become yellow. If you wish to use the feather again, it can be whitened very easily at home. First clean and rinse quickly in naphtha and then dry thoroughly in the open air. Place away in an air-tight box and expose to sulphur fumes. If you prefer, you can send the cleaned feather to a professional to be bleached.

Another method of whitening feathers, is to plunge into naphtha, rinse in a second dish of naphtha and dry in the open air. Then seal in an air-tight box and expose to strong sulphur fumes.

White felt hats can be successfully cleaned with soap and water. Use a soft brush. Always remove the lining, band and trimmings before doing this work. The hat is very liable to shrink however.

To clean chiffon hats, cover with powdered French chalk and lay away for a day or two. Then remove all traces of the chalk with a soft brush. If the hat is not clean, repeat the process until it is.

You can clean white fur and white knitted garments by rubbing white flour or corn meal into them. Lay away for several days and then brush thoroughly to remove the flour. Repeat if the garment is not fresh and clean.

LESSON 22

QUESTIONS

1. What is probably the greatest aid for cleaning purposes?

2. What can be done to prevent wings and fancies made of small feathers from being roughened by the wind or by careless handling?

3. How may velvet be cleaned?

4. What is the best way to wash lace?

5. How may a buckram frame be renovated?

6. Explain how flowers may be cleaned.

7. How can maline and chiffon be refreshed?

8. How may white lace be tinted a cream color?