1925—Millinery
by Jane Loewen

CONTENTS

Introduction

CHAPTER I—WIRE FRAMES

I. Uses of wire frames

Wire frames for molding

1. Elastic molded over a wire frame
2. Buckram molded over a wire frame
3. Willow molded over a wire frame

Wire frames for transparent hats

1. Frames for transparent lace hats
2. Frames for transparent maline hats
3. Frames for hair-braid hats

Wire-frame uses to be avoided

II. Mathematical Side of Frame Making

Mathematical principles involved

Mathematical accuracy

Enlarging or reducing dimensions

1. A larger edge wire
2. A smaller edge wire
3. Larger headsize
4. Smaller headsize

III. Process of Constructing a Wire Frame for a Hat

Correct order of recording measurements Getting correct headsize

Geometrical precision required

1. Marking the headsize for brace position
2. Mounting the brace wire
3. Marking the brace wire for correct measurements

IV. Dimensions for Standard Hats

Medium rolled brim

Medium small poke

Child's poke

Questions

CHAPTER II—MOLDED FRAMES

I. Molded or Pressed Frames

Process of manufacture

Cost of manufacture

Advantages of using a pressed frame

Adjustment of pressed frame

1. To adjust the headsize
2. To make a mushroom from a sailor
3. To make a poke from a mushroom
4. To use a pattern on a pressed frame

II. Hand-Molded Frames

Frames of various materials stretched on wire

1. Willow
2. Buckram
3. Jockey
4. Elastic net
5. Rice net or cape net
6. Crinoline

Process of making a stretched frame

1. Soaking frame fabric in water
2. Pinning frame fabric to wire frame
3. Drying frame fabric on the frame
4. Removing frame fabric from the mold
5. How to give variety to shapes stretched on the same frame
6. How to wire a frame

III. Bias Dry-Molded Frames

When frames may be molded in this way

Processes

1. Frame molding in the hand
2. Dry molding over a frame

Questions

CHAPTER III—PATTERN FRAMES

I. Classification of Frames Made from Patterns

Straight brims

1. Mushroom
2. Sailor
3. Bias turban

Rolled brims

1. Thimbled rolls
2. Headsize rolls
3. Facing rolls
4. Edge rolls

II. Comparison of Processes in Making Unrolled Brims

III. Cutting the Frame

Placing of pattern

Obtaining correct headsize

Adjusting seams

Importance of true-edge outlines

IV. Wiring Frames

Different kinds of wire

1. Brace wire
2. Lace wire
3. French wire
4. Cable wire
5. Ribbon wire

Special uses of these wires

1. Cable wire and French wire
2. Lace wire
3. French wire
4. Cable wire
5. Ribbon wire

Points of importance in wiring frames

Stitches used

1. Blanket stitch
2. Back stitch

V. Binding a Frame

VI. Covering Frame with Interlining

Kinds of interlining and their uses

Stitches used

Effects to be obtained

Questions

CHAPTER IV—CROWNS

I. Frame Foundations Used for Crowns

Pressed crowns

1. Desirable kinds of pressed crowns

Side crown foundations

II. Kinds of Crowns

Cap crowns

1. Plain oval-top crown
2. Small oval-side crown shirred on cord
3. Round top crown
4. Method of mounting
5. Seam placement

Plain sectional

1. Kinds of sectional crowns
2. Method of assembling sectional crowns

Section cap crown with draped side crown

1. Assembling
2. Mounting the top crown
3. Draping the side crown

Tam crowns

1. Fitted or circular crowns
2. Sectional tams
3. Saddle tams
4. Round tam with bias sides

Fitted crowns

1. Fitted or pressed crowns
2. Draped side crown
3. Fitted top crowns
4. Sectional crowns fitted on pressed crowns

Soft semifitted crowns

1. Draped
2. Sectional

III. Outline of Kinds of Crowns and their Appropriate Brims

IV. How to Determine Kinds of Crowns Suitable to Individual Types of Faces

What decides the kind of crown to be worn

Rules for choosing crowns

1. For the wide face oval
2. For the narrower face
3. For the long, thin face
4. For the short face oval

QUESTIONS

CHAPTER V—STAPLE MILLINERY MATERIALS

I. Materials Used

Fabrics

1. Velvets
2. Silks
3. Cotton and linen fabrics
4. Laces
5. Straw cloths

Braids

1. Tests for quality
2. Varieties

Body

1. Process of manufacture
2. Tests of quality
3. Varieties

Trimmings

1. Tests of quality
2. Varieties

Frames

1. Process of manufacture
2. Varieties

Findings

1. Covering
2. Wire
3. Threads
4. Liquid preparations
5. Needles

QUESTIONS

CHAPTER VI—CUTTING MATERIALS

I. Cutting a True Bias

How to obtain a true bias

When a true bias is necessary

Importance of stretching

Matching seams

1. Seam placement

To cut a correct bias on Lyons velvet

II. Cutting a Long Bias

Process of cutting a long bias

When a long bias is required

III. Table of Bias Measures

IV. Rules for Measuring Material for a Bias that is to be Stretched

Folds

Flanges

V. Correct Shading for Velvet and Soleil

VI. Measuring a Frame for the Correct Amount of Material

VII. Accuracy in Cutting, a Large Factor in Cost Saving

A paper pattern to be made first

Correct placing of pattern important in two ways

1. Correct results
2. Greatest economy of materials

VIII. Methods Used for Cutting Maline

Maline used for folds

Maline used for pleatings

Maline used for rosettes

Maline used for bows

IX. Cutting Bias Binding from Frame and Crown Edges

Economy of time

Questions

CHAPTER VII—THE FABRIC HAT

I. Fall Materials and Fabrics

Velvet

Satin soleil

Plushes

1. Hatter's plush
2. French plush

Satin

1. Baronet satin
2. Brocaded satin
3. Duchess satin

Duvetyn

Fancy materials

1. Brocades
2. Tapestries
3. Chinese embroideries and embroidery medallions

Furs

1. Seal
2. Martin
3. Beaver
4. Mole
5. Monkey
6. Astrakhan
7. Kolinsky

Ribbons

Braids

1. Chenille
2. Felt
3. Yarn

II. Classified Construction of Fabric Hats for Fall and Winter

Drapes

1. Matron's turbans
2. Harem turbans

Semidrapes

1. Section hats
2. Tams
3. Saddle tams

Fitted hats

1. Fitted, unpasted hats
2. Fitted, pasted hats

Sewing fur

1. Fitting
2. Cutting
3. Sewing
4. Equipment needed

Questions

CHAPTER VIII—BRAID HATS

I. KINDS

Summer braids

1. Visca braid
2. Satin straw
3. Hemp braid
4. Milan braid
5. Lisere braid
6. Tuscan braid

Sport braids

1. Yarn braid
2. Chenille braid
3. Felt braid
4. Ramie braid

Hair braid

1. Plain hair
2. Hair braids with designs
3. Hair braid folded by machine
4. Hair tubing
5. Fancy weaves of hair braids

II. Manner of Sewing

Crowns

1. Molding a soft crown over a wooden or buckram block
2. Sewing braid to a pressed crown

Plain brim

1. With a frame
2. Without a frame

Fancy sewing of braid brims in designs

Fancy crown sewing

Sewing milan and lisere

1. Soaking braid
2. Molding over wire frame
3. Molding over wooden blocks
4. Drying braid
5. Shellac finish

Questions

CHAPTER IX—TRANSPARENT HATS

I. Kinds

Maline

1. With brims fitted over wire frames
2. With steamed crowns
3. Solid crowns with transparent maline brims

Lace

1. Metal lace
2. Valenciennes lace
3. Lace flouncing
4. All-over lace

Lace and fabric combinations

Georgette

II. Preparing the Frame

Winding with maline for black and white hats

Dyeing to match metal or colored lace

Metallizing for metal-lace hats

III. Edge Finishes

Braid edges

Ribbon edges

Flanges

1. Velvet
2. Taffeta
3. Maline

IV. Appropriate Trimmings

Lace bows

Velvet

Flowers

1. Silk
2. Linen
3. Metal
4. Velvet
5. Handmade

Rosettes

1. Maline
2. Ribbon
3. Taffeta
4. Velvet

Feathers

Questions

CHAPTER X—DRAPED HATS

I. Matrons' Turbans

Cutting of materials

1. Materials

Combination of materials

Use of small brims

Ways to obtain width

Ways to obtain height

II. Harem Turbans

Varied materials used

1. Duvetyn
2. Taffeta
3. Satin
4. Satin ribbon
5. Tinsel cloths
6. Brocades
7. Straw cloth
8. Maline
9. Braids

Cutting of materials

Combinations of materials

Frames used

III. Draped Tams

Patterns

1. Sectional patterns
2. Circular patterns
3. Bias tams

Trimming

1. Machine embroidery
2. Hand embroidery
3. Beading

General suggestions

1. Points to remember for artistry
2. Points to remember for becomingness

IV. Section Hats

Various section hats

1. Two-section hats
2. Four-section hats
3. Six-section hats
4. Eight-section hats
5. Saddle-section hats

Questions

CHAPTER XI—TAILORED TRIMMINGS

I. Severe, Factory-Tailored Hats

II. Semitailored Hats

General street wear

Sport wear

III. Kinds of Tailored Trimmings

Ribbon

1. Band and bow
2. Flat ornaments of pleating and loops
3. Tied and pleated ornaments
4. Pleating

Braiding

1. Soutache
2. Ribbonzene
3. Tubing

Cording

1. Small, silk-finished cords
2. Large, silk-finished cords
3. Unfinished cords
4. To make a finished cord

Ornaments

1. Pins
2. Buckles
3. Medallions
4. Braid ornaments

Feathers

1. Wing
2. Goura
3. Numidy
4. Coq
5. Hackle
6. Vulture
7. Burnt and glycerined feathers

Questions

CHAPTER XII—DRESS-HAT TRIMMINGS

I. Trimmings for Which the Hat is a Background

Flowers for the garden hat

Elaborate ostrich trimmings

Paradise

Burnt goose

1. Bands
2. Fancies
3. Entire crowns

Elaborate coq

1. Bands
2. Fancies
3. Crowns

II. Trimming Which is Part of the Design

Flowers

1. Single flower
2. Sprays of flowers

Feathers

1. Ostrich heads
2. Paradise
3. Aigrettes
4. Fancies made of ostrich fiber

Embroideries

Silk floss
1. Applique materials in design
2. Ribbonzene
3. Tinsel thread
4. Tinsel-ribbon embroidery
5. Tinted ribbon

Questions

CHAPTER XIII—CLEANING AND REMODELING

I. Cleaning

Leghorns

1. Rye-bread process
2. Wall-paper-cleaner process
3. Soap-and-water process

Milans

1. Dyed milans
2. Natural milans

Panamas

1. Wall-paper-cleaner process
2. Rye-bread process

Straw braid

1. Wall-paper-cleaner process
2. Cleaning fluid
3. Soap-and-water process
4. Pressing braid

Flowers

1. Cleaning fluid
2. Dyeing
3. Pressing

Feathers

1. Ostrich
2. Aigrettes

Lace

1. Washing
2. Tinting

Felts

1. Cleaning fluids
2. Art gum
3. Fuller's earth

Velvets

1. Cleaning fluid
2. Refinishing

II. Remodeling

Pressed hats

1. Cutting
2. Edge finishes

Questions

CHAPTER XIV—COLOR HARMONY AS APPLIED TO THE INDIVIDUAL

I. Purpose of Color in Adorning the Person

II. Color Versus Temperament

III. Chart of Color Combinations Suitable to Various Types

Questions

CHAPTER XV—LINE HARMONY

I. Fundamental Principles of Line

Principles of line in art

1. Sculpture
2. Painting
3. Japanese prints

Principles of line in millinery

1. General principles
2. Harmonizing of line with the costume
3. Harmonizing of hat lines with the general style

II. Principles or Line as Applied to the Individual

Objects to be obtained

1. Greater beauty for the individual
2. Beauty of line in the hat
3. Conformity with fashion dictates

Specific types

1. Prominent nose
2. Small or snub nose
3. Wide face oval
4. Narrow face oval
5. The round face

Mode of hairdressing as adapted to types

1. As it affects the facial contour
2. As it affects the profile
3. As it affects the hat

Questions