1923—Woolen Materials and Tailored Plackets
Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences,
by Mary Brooks Picken
PRESSING AND SHRINKING WOOLEN MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
14. For pressing and sponging, or shrinking, woolen materials, a smooth, well-padded ironing board of good size is an absolute necessity; and by a good size is meant one that is at least 5 ft. long and 12 to 14 in. wide, so that it will accommodate practically any skirt. If much pressing is to be done, it is well to procure, also, two press cloths and one sponge cloth. These cloths are very necessary and they should be used for no purpose other than sponging and pressing materials and garments in the making. In addition, a small brush similar to a vegetable brush, which is about 4 in. long and 1 ¾ to 2 in. wide, with bristles ½ to ¾ in. long, is invaluable in sponging and pressing materials, and especially in dampening the press cloths, to avoid making them too wet. Such brushes cost 5 to 10 cents each and will last indefinitely. Another necessary article is a tailor's brush, which is a heavy brush with a long handle and a flat top. It is useful both in pressing and in steaming garments, the back of it to beat down heavy seams or any thick places and the bristles to aid in sending steam through the material and keeping its nap up. Such brushes may be purchased in any tailors' supply house. The wooden part of the brush must be unfinished, or unvarnished, however; if it is varnished, there is always danger of ruining garments on which it is used because of the fact that the steam generated in pressing and steaming garments will soften the varnish. An ordinary whisk broom, too, should be on hand for this work, as it is valuable for raising the nap of material when steaming garments if something stiffer than a brush is required. It is useful, also, in pressing materials that have a very long nap, as such nap must always be brushed straight before pressing. Sight must not be lost, either, of the flat irons to be used in pressing. As a rule, the flat irons used in the home come in sets of three, and it is the heaviest of these three that is most suitable for such work.
15. Padding and Covering an Ironing Board.—Many persons are of the opinion that an ironing board requires but little padding; such is not the case, however, for to get the best results sufficient padding should be used to give a firm, smooth surface. Light-colored, worn woolen blankets make the best padding for an ironing board, especially a board on which woolen materials are to be pressed, because the wool has a tendency to give under the material that is being pressed, thus making possible a softer, smoother pressed finish than would otherwise be the case. If wool for padding is not procurable, a worn cotton blanket may be used, or, if desired, very heavy flannelette may be purchased for the purpose. The chief essential is to have each thickness of padding in one piece, so as to avoid seams or ridges on the padded board. As a rule, the padding should be from 1/4 to 3/8 in. thick. The covering for an ironing board should be made of unbleached muslin of a grade that can be purchased for 8 or 10 cents a yard. New muslin that has been washed is best, because it has very little lint. Old sheets make an excellent covering for an ironing board on which light-colored wash garments are to be ironed and pressed, but a covering with any sign of lint should always be avoided where dark materials, especially woolens, are to be pressed.
16. Small holders for stretching and keeping in place both the padding and the covering of an ironing board may be purchased in sets of four or six at a very low cost. These holders are excellent for stretching out every wrinkle and for holding the padding permanently in place. However, if they cannot be procured, the board may be padded and covered as follows:
Stretch both the padding and the covering over the board, one at a time, just as tight as possible, and tack them in place on the underneath side, placing a tack every 2 or 3 in. so as to make sure of holding it in place. To get the best results in covering a board, the padding and the covering should be at least 2 or 3 in. larger in every way than the top of the ironing board. Begin by tacking the middle of the pieces of material to the middle of the board; that is, the center of each end and the center of each side. Tack, first, one end; then draw the material across tight and tack the other end, next, tack one side and then the other, drawing the covering and padding materials tight in each instance. Next, draw the corners of the material to their respective corners and tack them in place, stretching the materials well along the lines leading to the middle tacks. With this done, fasten the rest of the padding in place, putting tacks between those already in place. This method obviates the gathering of fulness at any point, which would result in wrinkles otherwise impossible to work out.
Another word about the ironing board. If the board becomes slightly warped or sunken through the center, reverse the padding and use the underneath side for the top, as the slight rounding thus secured is even better for pressing than a flat surface.
17. Preparing the Sponge and Press Cloths.—Unbleached muslin should be used for the two press cloths required, and for the sponge cloth unbleached duck or drilling will be suitable. About 1 ½ yd. of material is sufficient for each press cloth, and 1/4 to ½ yd. of material is sufficient for the sponge cloth. None of these pieces have to be hemmed, but, if desired, the raw edges may be overcast to prevent them from raveling. All of these cloths may be washed and boiled with the ironing-board cover. By boiling them in fairly strong soapsuds to which a pinch of baking soda has been added, the filling that is put in when the material is woven will be removed. This precaution should always be taken, because of the danger of new muslin scorching readily and also because it is almost impossible for the new material to absorb sufficient water to be of any service in sponging if the filling is not removed.
SHRINKING, OR SPONGING, WOOLEN MATERIALS
18. Before woolen cloth is made up, it should be thoroughly shrunk, or sponged, so that the seams of a garment will not shrink unevenly in the process of making nor spot or shrink from dampness when being worn. Of course, all woolen materials are shrunk, or sponged, in the process of manufacture; nevertheless, in spite of the fact that merchants in some cases claim that certain materials do not have to be treated in this manner, it is advisable to do so, because materials that are kept in stock become relaxed. In the large cities, it is possible to have the cloth shrunk by the merchant from whom it is purchased, usually at an additional cost of 5 cents a yard; but in the smaller cities and towns, the stores, as a rule, are not equipped to carry on such work, and it must of necessity be done at home.
The method of shrinking heavy materials without a glossy finish differs from that employed in shrinking materials with a glossy finish; therefore, it is well to understand both, so as not to encounter difficulties when confronted with such work. Before shrinking, however, whether the material has a gloss or not, the selvages of the material should be clipped not farther than 1 to 1 1/4 in. apart or cut off entirely, in order to prevent it from drawing.
19. Shrinking Material Without a Glossy Finish.—In order to shrink heavy tailoring materials that do not have a glossy finish, both a board covered with muslin and a piece of unbleached muslin are required. The board should be thin, about 10 in. wide, and of a length equal to the width of the cloth, provided it is single-width, or to the width of the folded cloth, provided it is double-width. The muslin must be about 1 yd. longer than the cloth and a little wider than single-width cloth, or just a little greater in width than the distance from the fold to the selvage of double-width material. Both single- and double-width materials are treated in the same manner, the double-width goods being left folded lengthwise through the center, just as it is when purchased. The procedure is as follows:
Wet the muslin thoroughly and then wring it almost dry, being very careful to distribute the moisture evenly. An even distribution of moisture is very important in such work, for if the muslin is too wet in some places it will cause the formation of spots that are difficult to remove. Next, spread the cloth that is to be shrunk across the top of a large table and place the wet muslin over it, smoothing out the wrinkles of each very carefully. Wrinkles must not be allowed to form in shrinking, because it is almost impossible to obliterate them. With the materials thus laid out, put the board on top of one end of the muslin, pin or hold the cloth and the muslin together along one side of the board, and be sure to have the weave in the cloth straight with the board. Then begin to roll them on the board, but not too tight, being sure to smooth out the wrinkles ahead of each turn, to keep the materials straight on the board, and to adjust the muslin at the ends so that it will come well over the cloth. After the material is thus rolled, allow it to remain on the board for 4 to 6 hours. Then unroll it, remove the muslin, and spread the cloth out so that it may dry thoroughly. For drying, the cloth may be spread on a large table, but if such a table is not available it may be hung over the top of a door. If a door must be used for this purpose, several thicknesses of newspaper should be put across its top before hanging up the cloth, so as to cover the sharp corners. If they are not covered in this way, the corners will cause water marks to form on the cloth, and such marks are almost impossible to remove. It is also well to put paper on each side of the door, so as to prevent the cloth from touching it.
20. Shrinking Material Having a Glossy Finish.—For shrinking material having a glossy finish, such as broadcloth, an ironing board, a hot iron, and about 2 yd. of unbleached muslin should be on hand. The work is done in the following manner: Place the material, right side down, across the ironing board; lay over it the muslin, which should first be dipped in water and then wrung out well; and then run a hot iron over the muslin several times. Remove the muslin from the cloth next, and press the material until it is almost dry. Only a small part of the goods is shrunk at one time, the muslin and the goods being moved on the board until the full length has been sponged and pressed. When the shrinking, or sponging, has been completed, all the material should be gone over carefully with an iron to make sure that there are no wrinkles.
21. Care in Shrinking Light-Weight Woolens.—It is very necessary to be careful in sponging and pressing light-weight woolen materials so as not to stretch either side; the edges should be kept straight both in width and in length. If too hot an iron or too much water is used on very light woolens, such as challis or nun's veiling, the cloth will show a decided tendency to pucker; puckering must be avoided, because a smooth cloth is absolutely necessary in cutting.
PRESSING WOOLEN MATERIALS
22. A knowledge of how materials should be pressed is very important to the person who sews, for, if the work is done right, pressing should always precede and follow every step in the construction of all tailored garments, and especially woolen ones. Pressing not only improves the fit of the finished garment, but adds considerably to its finish. Experience has proved that if particular pains are taken with the pressing of the seams, corners, and curves during the process of making a garment, very little pressing will be required when it is completed.
In pressing woolen materials, the iron should be hot, but not sufficiently hot to scorch. It is always well to bear in mind, too, that wool scorches much more readily than cotton, arid, although the press cloth comes between the material and the iron used in pressing, great care should always be taken, for when hard pressing must be done, as is the case in making tailored garments, the heat from the iron soon penetrates the muslin press cloth and scorches the material. To say the least, it is distressing to see tailored garments that show prints of the iron or scorched spots caused by an iron that was too hot.
23. To press cloth that is used in tailoring, proceed as follows: First, lay the material out smooth on the ironing board, and if there is a nap brush it straight with a whisk broom; then place the press cloth over the seam or the place that is to be pressed. Beat down any extra-heavy seam or thickness with the back of the long-handled tailor's brush. Next, dip the sponging brush in water, shake it gently to remove some of the water, and then pass it gently over the press cloth, taking care to distribute the water evenly. With the press cloth thus dampened, run the heavy iron, previously mentioned, over it, holding the iron in the right hand and smoothing the press cloth with the left. Keep the iron moving with a rotary movement, never permitting it to stay in one place very long at a time, and thus avoid all possibility of iron prints showing on the material. If the material takes on shine easily, then use the tailor's brush in the pressing; that is, throw the press cloth back, brush the material quickly, and return the press cloth in position, continuing in this way as long as it steams freely and finishing the pressing as just described.
24. Some woolen materials have a tendency to slide or slip out of position, and in pressing it is always worth while to lift the press cloth with the left hand occasionally to make sure that the material is lying perfectly smooth and that no wrinkles have been formed anywhere, for, as is well known, wrinkles that are steamed and pressed can be removed only with great difficulty. In pressing, the iron should never be pushed or dragged; rather, it should be lifted gently from one part of the material to the next, so as to minimize the danger of wrinkles creeping in and of pulling the material or garment out of shape. Another point worth remembering is that, whenever a new place is to be sponged or pressed, the iron should always be placed on its holder or on the stove, so that both hands may be used to adjust the material and the press cloth properly.
REMOVING SHINE FROM WOOLEN GARMENTS
25. Sometimes, in the construction of woolen garments, certain parts, especially seams and overlapping edges, become shiny, or glossy, if they are pressed without the use of a press cloth or if the press cloth that is used is too dry or if too much pressure is exerted on the iron; also, as is well known, any hard or firmly twisted woolen threads that are subjected to wear will become glossy. Shine in any case is undesirable, and the treatment for overcoming it is the same whether a garment is new or old.
Shine that is very prominent on a garment is difficult to get rid of, even temporarily. Of course, in garment construction, the logical thing to do is to avoid shine by exercising the proper amount of care in pressing, and the use of the tailor's brush goes a long way in obviating this difficulty; but for garments that are worn day in and day out the prevention of shine, especially on hard-finished fabrics, is next to impossible. The backs of skirts worn by persons who sit a great deal get shiny much more quickly than other parts, and frequently a garment is practically ruined before the shine is discovered. Shine on this part of a garment can be avoided to some extent by keeping the chair, or seat, that is used most covered with a cushion or a piece of felt, as two fabrics coming in contact with each other will not produce shine, whereas the hard surface of an uncovered chair, or seat, will soon bring out a gloss that will mar the appearance of the garment.
26. Although shine may be avoided to a certain extent, as just mentioned, it is next to impossible to remove the gloss for any considerable length of time after the material has once become shiny. Yet, by being persistent, it is possible to keep shine back enough not to be annoying. No woman can afford to have her skirts appear glossy from wear, and she should take the time to go over her skirts that are in constant use at least once a week in order to keep down any signs of shine that might appear.
With the preceding thoughts in mind, there are here mentioned a few methods of removing shine temporarily. These methods, however, are suitable only for fairly firm materials, for, as has been stated, it is only such fabrics that produce sufficient shine to require any attention. With the soft weaves, as a rule, steaming will suffice, as it lifts the nap enough to overcome any possible shine.
27. One method of removing shine consists in brushing the shiny material with sandpaper of good quality that is not too coarse. This brushing tends to lift the fiber of the nap and thus remove the shine. However, on worn garments, the shine is removed only for a time, and, to be effective, the operation must be repeated frequently. Such treatment as this will eventually cause the threads of the material to break and the garment to wear thin; nevertheless, it is a quick, easy way in which to keep off shine, especially if garments cannot be sponged and pressed conveniently.
28. Another method of removing shine temporarily is as follows, although it is suitable only for dark materials: To 1 pint of warm water add 1/4 teacup of vinegar; then, applying the solution evenly on the right side of the garment and using the sponge brush previously mentioned or a fine wire brush, thoroughly brush the garment on the right side. The acid in the vinegar causes every particle of the nap to lift and to curl slightly, thus making the shine appear less prominent. After applying the vinegar solution, brush the shiny places with fine sandpaper; or, if sandpaper is not at hand, use a scrap of wool of the same color as the material undergoing treatment or of a color that will not fade and make streaks on the garment. A woolen sponge cloth of this kind will lift the nap much better than a cotton one; it will dig-tribute the water more evenly, too, and will avoid the formation of lint.
Instead of vinegar water, some persons prefer to use a solution consisting of 1 part of powdered alum dissolved in 15 parts of water. Such a solution may be applied in the same way as the vinegar water, and it will give practically the same results.
29. Steaming Shiny Garments.—Garments that have become shiny should never be pressed; rather, they should be steamed. To steam a shiny garment, put it on the ironing board as in pressing; also, place the press cloth on in the same way, but have it a little damper than for ordinary pressing. Then hold a hot iron very close to the press cloth, but not on it, until the material is steamed thoroughly and every wrinkle is removed. The iron should be held up all the while in order to dry the steamed material so that it will appear as if pressing had been carefully done, although the iron is not pressed to it for an instant. The frequent use of the tailor's brush will aid greatly in sending the steam into the material and in raising the nap and thus removing the shine.
