1922—Millinery
by Charlotte Rankin Aiken, B.A.
CONTENTS
Plan of Department
General Impression
Atmosphere
Stock Tables
"Trying on" Tables
Display Cases
Counter Cases
Arrangement of Stock
"French Rooms"
Stock and Workrooms
Most Important Material
Italian Straw Best
Climate and Soil
Gathering and Bleaching
Sorting
Centers of the Plaiting Industry
Method of Plaiting
Varieties
Tuscan Braid
Florence Tuscan Braid
Leghorn Hats
Plaiting Leghorn
Milan Braid
Patent Milan
Split Straw
Liséré
Oriental Braids
Braid-Making in China
Chinese Straw
Swiss Straw
Hemp
Hemp Hats
Hemp-Weaving Industry
Philippine Factories
Milan Hemp
Imitation Hemp
Machine-Made Braids
Chip
Yedda
Ramie
Horsehair
Pyroxylin
Chrysanthemum Braid
Hand-Made Hats
Panama Hats
Location of Industry
Gathering the Raw Material
Toughening and Bleaching
Plaiting by the Natives
Process of Making
Finishing
Method of Cleaning
Tests for Quality
Imitation Panamas
Wenchow
Philippine Hats
Bamboo Hats
Weaving Bamboo
Double Hats
Qualities of the Bamboo Hat
Buri Hats
Kalasio Hats
Buntal Hats
Pandan Hats
Minor Hat Materials
Export Trade
Development of Industry
Location of Factories
Different Kinds of Factories
Receiving the Braids
Sewing the Braid into Hats
Sizing
Blocking
Additional Blocking
Finishing
Sewed Braids
Felting Properties of Wool and Fur
Sources of Felt
First Process
Washing the Skins
Drying and Cutting
Sorting and Grading
Mixing
Cleansing the Fur
Forming
Felting Process Begun
Sizing
Dyeing
Stiffening
Stretching
Finishing Processes
Different Grades of Felt
History of Felt Hats
Use of Velvet and Other Fabrics in Hats
Manufacture of Pile Fabrics
Ways to Determine Quality of Velvet
Manufacture of Velvet Hats
Silk and Satin Hats
Durability of Silk Hats
Weighted Silk
Other Fabric Hats
New Materials
Fur Hats
Miscellaneous Fabrics
Varieties
How Style Is Influenced
The Story of Trimmings Feathers
Treatment of Feathers
Ostrich Feathers
Ostrich Farms
Forms of Ostrich Feathers
Dyeing Ostrich Feathers
Black Dye
Vulture Wings
Peacock and Pheasant
Wild Duck, Parrot, and Guinea-Fowl
Pigeon
Fowl
"Spanish Coq" and Hackle
Egret or Aigret (a Kind of Heron)
Bird of Paradise
Other Wild Birds Used for Hat Trimming
Sources of Artificial Flowers
Flower Materials
Stiffening and Cutting Out
Dyeing
Making
How Flowers Come to the Milliner
Roses
Field Flowers
Applique Flowers
Violets
Small Flowers
Odd Flowers
Rare Flowers
Natural Flowers
Foliage
Fruits
Silk Ribbons
Weaves
Ribbon Patterns
Widths of Ribbons
Bands
Ornaments
Embroidery and Painting
Other Trimmings
Fur Trimmings
Importance of the Choice
Good Taste
The Cause of Bad Taste
The Duty of Women to be Beautiful
Importance of a Hat in a Costume
The Saleswoman's Part in Selecting a Hat
Line and Color in Millinery
Observation and Study of Dress
Style in Millinery
Change in Styles
Extreme and Conservative Styles
Suitability
Putting One's Self in the Customer's Place
What Constitutes a Suitable Hat
Suiting the Age of a Customer
Actively Becoming Hats
The Most Important Elements in Choosing a Hat
Importance of a Knowledge of Color to the Salesperson
Combinations of Colors
The Spectrum
Standard Colors
Primary Colors
Secondary Colors
Characteristics of Primary Colors
Characteristics of Secondary Colors
Luminous and Somber Colors
Broken Colors
Absorption and Reflection of Color
Complementary Colors
Properties of Color
Hues
Values
Color Scales
Intensity
Color Harmonies
Color Under Artificial Light
Commercial Names of Colors
Training the Sense of Color
Questions of Taste Solved by a
Knowledge of Color Harmony
Bringing Out the Best Features in a Face
Reflection
Characteristics of Colors
Red
Orange
Yellow
Green
Blue
Violet
Variety in Color
Restfulness of Neutral Colors
Combinations of Neutrals with Brighter Colors
How to Train One's Self in Color-Taste
Choosing a Hat
Importance of the Lines of a Hat
Relation Between the Parts of the Hat
Lines, Curves, and Angles, and Their Relations
Symmetry in a Hat
Balance
Adapting the Size and Shape of a Hat to the Wearer
The Full, Round Face
Flat Features
Snub Noses
The Thin Face
The Angular Face
Age
Medium Type of Face
Extremes
Relation Between the Saleswoman and the Workroom
Hat Frames
The Buckram or Willow Frame
The Wire Frame
Bows
Method of Affixing Trimmings
Linings
Freshening and Cleaning
What the Customer Is Wearing
Visiting Among Salespeople
Learning to Talk About Hats
Trade Papers and Home Study
Factory Visiting
The Care of Stock
Seating the Customer
Careful Selection of Stock
Customers Who Are "Just Looking"
Avoiding Questions
Judging a Customer by Her Dress
When the Customer Leaves Without Buying
Fitness to Meet a Customer
The Economy and Pleasure of Making Hats
Observation the First Essential
Covering the Frame
The Trimming
The Lining
Colored Hats
Reblocking
Magazine Helps
APPENDIX
Books for Reference
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Chinese Straw Plaits
- Braiding Straw
- Cutting Hemp by Hand
- Thirteen-Spool Braiding Machine
- Weaving a Hat
- Shipping Straw Braids
- On an Ostrich Farm [Note: Illustration missing from book]
- Diagram Indicating Primary and Secondary Colors With Their Hues, Tints,
and Contrasts
- Full Face Cannot Wear a Turban
- Full Face Looks Well in a Large-Brimmed Hat
- A Snub-Nosed Person Should Not Wear a Turban
- A Person with Regular Features Can Wear a Turban
- A Thin Face Looks Well in a Turban
- A Thin Face Cannot Wear a Large-Brimmed Hat
- An Older Face Needs a Hat Soft in Material and Trimmings
- A Youthful Face Can Wear a Hat with Stiff, Straight Lines in Shape and
Trimming
- It Is Inartistic to Hide the Eyebrows
